Withering Heights: Saving the Cloud Forest of Monteverde

Withering Heights: Saving the Cloud Forest of Monteverde

We visit the cloud forest of Monteverde in Costa Rica and learn that despite its visible liveliness, there is more to it than meets the eye

In some ways, Costa Rica's Monteverde cloud forest is its own worst enemy. This dark and dripping place is teeming with life. Strangler figs tower above the forest floor, their trunks as sturdy as stone. Lush mosses and gossamer ferns cover the canopy in green, while spindles of yellow justicia and bright red passiflora add a splash of color.

The hanging garden is home to a rich fauna: over 100 mammal, 400 bird and thousands of insect species live here, and it is one of the few remaining habitats that supports all six of Costa Rica's wild cats - jaguars, ocelots, pumas, oncillas, margays and jaguarundis - as well as the vulnerable three-lobed bellbird and the magnificent quetzal.

Seeing this firsthand convinces visitors that the Monteverde cloud forest is one of the healthiest and most vibrant centers of biodiversity. In reality, the forest is clearly under threat from climate change, which is undermined by its external splendor.

alt="Monteverde Cloud Forest in Costa Rica">Atlas & BootsMosses, ferns and epiphytes thrive in the Santa Elena cloud forest

In fact, scientists have described the cloud forest, which covers just 1% of the global forest area, along with ice caps and coral reefs, as one of the most fragile ecosystems on Earth - so why isn't more known about it?

Cloud forests can be described as highland forests with almost 100% humidity all year round. They benefit from even cloud cover, which results in slower evaporation and in turn provides plants with an abundance of life-giving moisture. These wet conditions allow a variety of creatures to thrive.

alt="Monteverde Cloud Forest: Quetzal">Francesco Veronesi; CC BY-SA 2.0The magnificent quetzal can be found in the cloud forest of Monteverde

Monteverde Cloud Forest is arguably the most famous of its kind. Its origins can be traced back to the 1950s, when US Quakers settled in the area. As pacifists, they wanted to avoid being drafted into the Korean War and came to Costa Rica, which disbanded its army in 1948.

As the Quakers cleared the forest for pasture, they also protected parts of it to preserve the watershed. Recognizing the region's unique ecosystem, the Quakers formed a coalition with foreign scientists and local Costa Ricans that ultimately led to the establishment of the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve in 1972. Today the reserve protects 105 km2 of forest.

alt="Cloud forest covers only 1% of the global forest area">Atlas & BootsCloud forest covers only 1% of the global forest area

Unfortunately, the Monteverde cloud forest is suffering from warmer, drier weather patterns that are eradicating cloud. Dry days in the forest have quadrupled over the past four decades and have averaged over 100 days per year since 2011.

Amphibians that once thrived here have declined to the point of extinction. Lowland species of bats and birds have begun to invade the cloud forest, and the breeding patterns of magnificent quetzals are being disrupted. The colorful birds that have long attracted tourists to the area are being squeezed because there is no room for them to go uphill.

alt="The extinct golden toad was once abundant in the cloud forest of Monteverde">Public domainThe extinct golden toad was once abundant in the Monteverde cloud forest

One organization at the forefront of the fight against climate change is the Monteverde Institute, a nonprofit organization that runs a range of forest conservation initiatives, including habitat restoration, water conservation, education for local high school students, and presenting GIS data to decision-makers.

We recently visited the Monteverde Institute on our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica to learn about the work being done there.

alt=“A short tutorial before our tree planting session in the cloud forest of Monteverde”>Atlas & BootsA quick tutorial before our tree planting session at the Monteverde Institute

The institute has served as a base for numerous National Geographic-funded explorers and researchers, including American scientist Nalini Nadkarni, who specializes in epiphytes, a type of non-parasitic plant that grows on other plants and absorbs moisture and nutrients from the rain around them.

Nadkarni has spent nearly 40 years studying the forest, often climbing 30 to 40 meters above the ground to walk among the treetops. She has witnessed firsthand the changes in the Monteverde cloud forest.

“The impacts of climate change are real but subtle,” she tells us. "There is a lot of natural weather variation from year to year, so it is difficult to monitor trends. However, over the last 40 years, there have been measurable changes in the timing and type of rain and fog that arrive in Monteverde. There are bird and insect species that have 'moved up the mountain,' potentially displacing the species that originally lived here."

She adds: "Some biologists have suggested that climate change has negatively affected certain species of frogs and toads, which in turn negatively impacts snakes and other organisms that depend on them."

Of course, the Monteverde Institute is keen for visitors to offset the environmental impact of a visit to Costa Rica. Our group was invited to help prepare 100 trees for planting, thereby offsetting the carbon costs of our flights. It's not a perfect solution for frequent flyers, but it's certainly a start.

The Institute's Executive Director, Debra Hamilton, tells us that since December 2015, National Geographic visitors have helped plant nearly 13,000 trees and provided funds to support the Institute's reforestation staff.

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Given the increasing pressure on the cloud forest, I ask Nadkarni whether traditionally apolitical scientists feel compelled to speak out against the effects of climate change.

“Yes,” she replies. "Many scientists are realizing that they can have a critical voice in conservation and in solving environmental problems we all face. The current [U.S.] administration – with its lack of attention to the scientific basis for decision-making – has caused many scientists to come out of their laboratories and field sites and communicate with policymakers, land managers and the public."

alt=“Tree planting at the Monteverde Institute in the cloud forest of Monteverde”>Atlas & BootsTools of the trade at the Monteverde Institute

Nadkarni herself is very active in outreach work. Her TED talk above describes innovative ways she and her colleagues have garnered support from younger generations—including distributing “Treetop Barbies,” Barbie dolls purchased from Goodwill, refashioned as scientists in clothes made by tailors, and shipped with a canopy manual!

The importance of public relations cannot be overemphasized. Climate change rarely tops the news agenda and if left unchecked, it will likely count the cloud forest among its very first victims.

As Nadkarni said: "It is one of the canaries in the coal mine that is more sensitive to climate change than others. All point to a world experiencing climate change, and that is happening now."

With scientists like Nadkarni speaking out ever louder and armed with facts, it may still be possible to turn the tide.

Monteverde Cloud Forest: the essentials

What: Visit the Monteverde Cloud Forest as part of a 9-day tour of Costa Rica's natural highlights with National Geographic Expeditions.

Where: We stayed in a range of mid-range hotels, from the lavish grounds and comfortable rooms at Arenal Manoa in La Fortuna to simpler mountain lodge-style accommodations at Hotel Heliconia in Monteverde and even shipping containers repurposed as rooms at El Faro near Manuel Antonio.

When: The best time to travel to Costa Rica is the dry season from December to April. Plenty of sunshine makes it an ideal time to explore both the treetops and the coast. However, this is high season so expect more tourists and higher prices. The low season from May to July and November is also a good time to visit. It rains more, but it is quieter and the forests of Costa Rica are bursting with leaves.

How: We took a 9-day tour of Costa Rica's natural highlights with National Geographic Expeditions, which included a lecture and tree planting session at the Monteverde Institute. Book the optional Sky Walk Monteverde activity to walk among the treetops.

The tour itself costs from £1,199 and includes a Chief Experience Officer (CEO), all accommodation, transport between destinations, all breakfasts, some meals and numerous activities including a guided nature hike in the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, a guided hike in Manuel Antonio National Park, learning how to make Doña Mara tortillas in their family home and a tour of the Mi Cafecito coffee cooperative. Optional activities include volcano hiking, horseback riding, canyoning, zip-lining, stand-up paddle boarding, sailing and parasailing.

The tour is classified as a National Geographic Journey, operated in partnership with G Adventures. More luxurious options are available under the Luxury Eco Lodges, Private Tours, Private Jet Expeditions, Expedition Cruises, River Cruises and Tours With An Expert banners.

For more information or bookings call 0800 440 2551 or book online.

We flew to Costa Rica with British Airways. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Disclosure: We traveled to Costa Rica with support from National Geographic Expeditions. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

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