The 6 Best Hiking Trails in Torres del Paine, Chile

The 6 Best Hiking Trails in Torres del Paine, Chile

The hiking trails of Torres del Paine are some of the best hiking trails on the continent, if not the world

In 2013, National Geographic ranked Torres del Paine National Park in Chile as the fifth most beautiful place in the world.

Unfortunately, Torres del Paine represents one of my travel regrets from our big trip. We got our timing wrong and saw relatively little of some of the most dramatic landscapes in Chilean Patagonia.

Despite the weather, we managed to squeeze in a few short hikes (we're British after all) and took a 4WD ride around the park to scout out potential trails for the future. The park has excellent hiking infrastructure, with exceptionally maintained trails, as well as campsites and shelters at regular intervals.

I vowed to return one day to complete the Torres del Paine trails below. They are some of the best hiking trails on the continent, if not the world.

1. Gray Glacier and Lago de Gray

alt="best Torres del Paine hiking trails">Welsh Boy from London, Creative Commons

Distance: 12 km (7.5 miles) Duration: 5.5 hours

The fascinating Gray Glacier lies north of the lake of the same name and flows into it in a southerly direction. The trail follows the lakeshore and offers almighty views of the glacier and the dramatic Paine Massif throughout the day.

Start at the Refugio y Campamento Paine Grande and hike northwest to the glacier with the lake to your left (see map below). The final steep climb to 1,200 m on Paso John Gardner is worth the effort. You will be rewarded with the best views of the day.

2. Paso Los Cuernos

alt="torres-del-paine-hiking trails Lago Nordenskjöld">PHILVX, CREATIVE COMMONS

Distance: 11 km (7 miles) Duration: 4.5 hours

This is a more relaxed and undulating trail that follows the northern shore of Lake Nordenskjöl. It is rarely steep and not too demanding for the occasional hiker. The Paso Los Cuernos begins at the Campamento Italiano and winds between the towering Cuernos del Paine massif and the Sapphire Lake below.

Throughout the hike, you'll enjoy views of the rugged peaks that define Patagonia to your left, with the gentle and tranquil lake to your right.

3. Mirador Las Torres (The Towers)

alt="Hiking in Torres del Paine is one of the best outdoor activities in Chile">Dreamtime

Distance: 8 km (5 miles) Duration: 4.5 hours

That's probably why you came to Patagonia - it's the most popular of the Torres del Paine hiking trails. Surpassed only by Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre of Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina, the towers are fascinating in shape and form.

The granite pillars of Torres del Paine appear to rise nearly 2,000 m (6,500 feet) from the Patagonian steppe below and dominate the surrounding landscape. The path takes you to Base de las Torres, where you can take a perfect postcard photo if the weather is good.

The nearby Campamento Torres is perhaps one of the most beautiful campsites in the world. The hike includes a 45- to 60-minute climb to Miradór Las Torres.

4. Valle del Francés (French Valley)

Distance: 10 km (6 miles) Duration: 6 hours round trip

The magnificent French Valley is a natural basin surrounded by the black slate “horns” of the Cuernos del Paine. Here you can hike beneath the glacier-covered slopes of Cerro Paine, the range's highest peak at 2,850 m (9,350 ft), and enjoy panoramic views from the western side of this extraordinary mountain range.

A return hike from the Campamento Italiano is required as there is no opportunity to camp along the way.

5. The W

Distance: 60-84 km (37-52 miles)Duration: 4-5 days

The W takes up large parts of the above routes and ensures that you get right into the middle of the magnificent mountain ranges from both sides. It's best to hike from west to east to enjoy the views of the peaks of Los Cuernos and save the toughest sections for the (hopefully) lightest backpack.

The first stage runs along Lago Grey, from Lodge Paine Grande to Refugio Lago Grey, with great views of Glacier Gray along the way. The middle section is a steep climb up Valle Francés, covered in glaciers and waterfalls, offering closer views of Los Cuernos and Las Torres.

The last stage takes you to the viewpoint on the lake directly below the three towers.

6. The circuit

alt=“Torres del Paine Hiking Map”>The circuit covers a full loop of the park and includes the W Trail. Both can be seen at the top of the map.

Distance: 130 km (80 miles) Duration: 7-9 days

The big dog! By completing the circuit, you'll bag the best hikes in Torres del Paine all at once. The circuit includes the W as well as the back and less crowded north side of the park. It's better to approach it counterclockwise from Refugio Las Torres, as the incomparable Glacier Gray panorama opens up below you as you cross the highest point of the hike, Paso John Gardner.

While the W typically takes four to five days, the Circuit requires seven to nine days, allowing additional time to camp below Paso John Gardner, as it can often be too dangerous to cross in high winds. It's also a good opportunity to squeeze in a much-needed rest day.

Essentials

What: Hiking along the sapphire lakes and black-topped horned mountains of Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia, one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Where: We stayed at Weskar Lodge, just a short walk from Puerto Natales, the closest town to the park, and on the main road towards the park. The modern but extremely cozy hotel enjoys wonderful views of the fjord and the surrounding mountains - a destination in itself.

The hotel has a lovely dining and lounge area with an open log fire. Each room enjoys excellent views, internet connection and much-needed heating.

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When: As mentioned, we made a mistake by visiting in late fall (mid-May). There were some clearer days during our stay, but the best time to visit is without a doubt between November and April.

However, the weather in Patagonia is fickle and can change dramatically throughout the year without warning. Be prepared for all eventualities.

How: We spent six days in Puerto Natales, 75 km (46 miles) from the south entrance of the national park. We took numerous day trips to the national park, taking the 1h30min Ruta del Fin del Mundo (End of the World Route) into the park.

The town is the perfect base for exploring Torres del Paine's hiking trails, and you'll avoid paying for the outrageously expensive hotels within the park's boundaries. Weskar Lodge is the perfect base for day trips to the park. The friendly staff can help you organize excursions and rent a car from a local company at low cost.

The entry fee to the national park for foreigners is 18,000 CLP (£18/$28), which you can have stamped upon re-entry to the park to avoid further fees.

The distances in Chile are huge, so we recommend flying from Santiago to Punta Arenas with LAN. The best way to book tickets is via skyscanner.net. From Punta Arenas it is a three-hour bus ride north to Puerto Natales. Buses leave regularly throughout the day and cost from around 5,000 CLP (£5/$8).

There are several bus companies to choose from. We have used Buses Fernández and Bus Sur and can vouch for them. There are bus services to other parts of Chile as well as to destinations in Argentina, from both Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales.

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Recommended by the National Parks Administration and the National Tourist Service, the Torres del Paine Waterproof Trail Map is the largest and most detailed map of the infamous park.

Beautifully written and full of wonderful descriptions and fascinating stories, In Patagonia is an account of Bruce Chatwin's travels to a remote land in search of a strange beast and his encounters with the people whose fascinating stories stop him on the road.

Mission statement: Dreamstime

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