6 tips for visiting Isla Del Sol, Bolivia

6 tips for visiting Isla Del Sol, Bolivia

If your trip to Bolivia is similar to ours, you need a place to catch your breath and unwind. Visiting Isla Del Sol is the perfect answer

Like most trips around the world, ours wasn't a big yellow ball of glowing happiness, but rather a gradient of colors. At one end lie vibrant and soaring reds: Mount Yasurs and the Salar de Uyunis of the Voyage. At the other end are gray and brown: the 32-hour bus ride from Guayaquil to Lima, the insurance claim for broken electronics. And in the middle, great swaths of green and blue: the days that aren't breathtaking or life-affirming, but are still pleasant and fun.

Our visit to Isla Del Sol in Bolivia was (if I may emphasize the metaphor) all green and blue: not unmissable, but definitely worth a visit. Located on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca, this mythical birthplace of the sun god is home to a collection of 80 ruins and a small population of 800 families. It offers a peace of mind that we rarely find in mainland South America, and despite the odd hiccup, we left refreshed and ready again for Bolivia's many whims. Here are our tips to help you do the same.

1. Note the north-south gradient

It's likely that your hostel will be in either Yumani to the south or Challapampa to the north. Make sure your boat transfer ticket includes a stop at the correct end of the island. We booked a hostel in the south and almost bought a north-only ticket. There are no vehicles on the island so getting across would have been very difficult.

Also, make it clear to the crew where you need to go and proactively check where you have stopped. Our boat docked in Yumani for just a few seconds and left without notice. We had to rush outside to check our location and turn the boat around and return to shore.

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2. Take motion sickness pills

Our journey to Isla del Sol was slow and bumpy. Our return journey, even slower and rougher. There were also gasoline fumes that were heavy enough to upset even strong stomachs. If you're prone to motion sickness, take a preventive pill to keep it at bay.

3. Be aware of the steep hike upon arrival

If possible, leave your large bags at a hostel on the mainland and only take what you need for a two-night stay. There are no vehicles on the island and depending on the location of your hostel, you may face a long, steep hike (particularly in Yumani). Isla del Sol is at 3,800m at the base and 4,100m at the summit, so you'll have to deal with the altitude too. Peter traveled with 20kg on his back, so he couldn't carry my bag on top. Without the help of a local boy, I wouldn't have made it to our hostel.

4. Keep change for “tolls.”

You have to pay 15 Bolivianos ($2.15) to enter the island community. There is no official station where you can do this, so you'll probably end up paying a seemingly random stranger on the boardwalk. Make sure you get a ticket/receipt as proof of payment as you will need it for the cross island walk (which we highly recommend). If you do the hike, take your ticket with you as well as an additional 15 Bolivianos, which you will need to pay at the toll booth for the island's second municipality. When you come back (instead of leaving the island from the other side), just show your tickets at the toll booths. It's also worth keeping some change on hand for bathroom breaks.

5. Manage your expectations of the ruins

Isla del Sol has 80 ruins, most of which date back to the Inca period. Some of them are definitely worth visiting (see “Essentials” below), but be warned that they aren’t the greatest you’ll ever see, especially if you’re from Peru. Approach Isla del Sol to relax, hike, and enjoy beautiful views of Lake Titicaca and the Andes.

6. Be prepared for the cold

Cold showers. Cold hostels. Cold restaurants.

Okay, maybe that's unfair. We got a hot shower before the plumbing gave way. In all other countries, we were able to temper a cold shower with some sun, coffee in a warm restaurant, or curling up in a cozy bed. However, much of Bolivia was continuously cold for days, and Isla del Sol was no exception. Be warned that just because it's South America doesn't mean it will be warm.

The essentials

What: Two nights on Isla Del Sol, Bolivia, perfect for hiking and relaxing. Regarding the Inca ruins, you should visit the Puma Rock, the Inca Table and the Traces of the Sun to the north, and the Inca Steps and the Fountain of Youth to the south.

Where: Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia. We stayed at the Hotel Imperio del Sol. While our room was comfortable and had a great view, we felt that $35 per night was too high for the very basic amenities (broken flush toilet!). We've heard good things about Hostal Jacha Inti, but be warned that standards across the island may be lower than prices suggest.

When: The best time to travel to the Lake Titicaca area is the dry season from May to September. Average temperatures are between 16 and 17 °C (60 to 63 °F).

How: Take a boat from Copacabana to Isla del Sol. The boats leave at 8:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. and cost 30 bolivianos ($4.30) there and 20 bolivianos return ($2.15). Tickets can be purchased from agencies along the main thoroughfare. You can purchase a round-trip ticket for 40 Bolivianos ($5.80) if you return the same day, but we recommend staying a few nights.

Make sure your ticket goes to the correct port (Yumani in the south or Challapampa in the north, depending on your accommodation) and make it clear to the crew where you need to disembark.

If you're planning a hike, it's definitely worth taking a map with you. National Geographic's Adventure Map of Bolivia covers Isla del Sol along with the rest of the country. The map is printed on durable synthetic paper that is waterproof and tear-resistant - ideal for withstanding the rigors of international travel.

Bolivia's only international airport is in La Paz. Book flights via skyscanner.net.

The Lonely Planet Guide to Bolivia covers Isla del Sol in detail, explaining how to visit the world's largest salt flat, hike the Cordillera Real, and visit the bustling city of La Paz.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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