Antarctica: Why my seventh continent was more than just an ego trip

Antarctica: Why my seventh continent was more than just an ego trip

Kia explains why a trip to Antarctica finally gave her a sense of peace

I am one of six sisters, which has always given me a certain cachet; a kind of used, useless celebrity like that of stewardesses and identical twins. The last time I mentioned “all my sisters” publicly, a stranger interrupted me to ask how many. People often want to know if we all get along, how often we see each other, and what it was like growing up.

I tell them it was happy and chaotic and loud. The truth is, it was like that for a while, but once we hit our teenage years, we were thrust into a different orbit: home, school, library. My sisters and I were no longer allowed to move freely, thanks to our parents' conservative views on what young Asian women should and should not be.

Each of us adapted in our own way, but for me – a reader driven by adventure stories – things quickly became stuffy at home; a place of imprisonment from which I could not escape.

Atlas & BootsAs a reader driven by adventure stories, Kia dreamed of Antarctica

As soon as I could, I started traveling, which felt like the ultimate freedom. I started with familiar places: Paris at 16, New York at 18, Thailand at 21. I conjured up school trips and work commitments to get my parents' permission. By the time I moved into my own apartment - a downright taboo for an unmarried woman from my community - traveling had gotten into my bones.

Over the next ten years I visited 60 countries on six continents, as well as numerous remote areas such as Easter Island, the Faroe Islands, the Galápagos Islands and the Cooks Islands. Still, I longed for one thing: Antarctica.

Atlas & BootsAntarctica: the final frontier

This remote wilderness popped into my head: a place of pristine tundra, towering glaciers, and a silence so absolute it could hurt. For me, Antarctica was the final frontier, and when I was offered a 10-day trip to the Antarctic Peninsula with Albatros Expeditions in 2019, it seemed like a short and cruel ploy. Like embers on a paving stone, here one second and gone the next.

It was actually hard to believe for a while as our trip was pushed back from 2020 to 2021 and then from 2021 to 2022. We didn't really believe it would happen until we set foot on the Ocean Victory, the most environmentally friendly expedition ship currently traveling to the continent.

Ocean Victory, the most environmentally friendly expedition ship currently sailing to Antarctica

We set sail from Ushuaia, known as the southernmost city in the world and nicknamed “El Fin del Mundo”, the so-called end of the world. Of course we would venture much further.

We began with a two-day crossing of the Drake Passage, the infamous body of water between Chile's Cape Horn and the South Shetland Islands. This is where three oceans meet and waves can exceed 12 m (40 feet), unhindered by landmasses. In fact, the Drake is considered one of the most treacherous voyages for ships.

Atlas & BootsKia looks out over Drake Passage

Drowsy from my seasickness pills, I spent most of the first day in bed. Luckily, I more or less found my sea legs again on the second day. I was surprised when an expedition leader said that this was one of the smoothest crossings he had ever experienced. With that in mind, I would hate to see the Drake in a temper.

Soon we came across pack ice, large expanses of floating white. Here the salt air gave way to something lighter: a high, bright chill that snaked its way into our collars. Here the captain announced a surprise. Although not on the official itinerary, we would cross the Arctic Circle at 66°33′ south of the equator.

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A celebratory drink as we cross the Arctic Circle

Not all journeys cross the circle, even if they end up on the continent itself, so this was a moment of celebration. We met other passengers on the upper deck and celebrated with glasses of sparkling champagne.

As I shifted my glass from one hand to the other and said, “Eek, my champagne is getting colder!”, the absurdity of the moment hit me. I burst out laughing: a happy schoolgirl noise that turned into giddiness.

Atlas & BootsPenguin highways are etched into snow over time

The next day we landed on the Antarctic Peninsula at Neko Harbour, home to a colony of gentoo penguins. Here we discovered a series of “penguin highways,” paths etched into the snow created by a few brave penguins and reused by many others on their way to the sea.

As we disembarked we were pleased to find a “welcome committee” of Gentoos on the shore. Here there would be no jostling for views or anxious hours of waiting for photos. The penguins were plentiful and, with no land predators posing a threat, supposedly comfortable. Still, all passengers were asked to follow protocol: walk in single file, never block a penguin highway, and abide by red flags set by the exhibition team. These protocols are designed to protect the penguins, so passengers are happy to oblige.

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Encounter gentoo penguins in Neko harbor

After Neko it was time for our first zodiac ride around the icebergs of the peninsula. Here we saw Attenborough's Antarctica: massive ice formations streaked with impossible blue, penguins swimming in the water, a seal lounging in the distance.

Of course, in a place governed by chance, there are likely to be some challenges. For example, our kayaking and camping trips were canceled due to unforeseen circumstances, meaning we would miss out on two of Antarctica's essential experiences.

alt="Attenborough's Antarctica">Atlas & BootsAttenborough's Antarctica

There was more disappointment in the store. The next day on our Zodiac cruise, we saw whales from a distance, while passengers on another boat saw them incredibly close. Our Zodiac couldn't get that close due to regulations. We were encouraged to see that boundaries were being respected - especially after our experience in Mirissa - but still disappointed. Later, when the other passengers showed us their shots, we couldn't help but be brimming with envy.

Fortunately, Antarctica gives back what it takes in other ways. As we strolled across the upper deck that evening, we were stunned to discover a baby humpback whale sleeping off the bow of the ship. Yes, sleep.

We and a dozen passengers all gathered in a whisper. We watched the creature for many minutes in one of the most breathtaking moments of the trip. When he stirred, all else was forgiven. This was something indelible: a moment I could remember forever to prove to myself that I had lived.

It was a fitting end to our time on the peninsula before heading to the South Shetlands. Our first stop was Half Moon Island, home to a colony of chinstrap penguins. We spent just under an hour observing these enchanting creatures before returning to land for our Polar Plunge.

Atlas & BootsA pair of chinstrap penguins

A terrifying rite of passage for visitors to the area, the Polar Plunge involves a jump into near-freezing water (1-2°C), usually from the ship, occasionally from a Zodiac, and sometimes from the shore, which I believe is the worst. It certainly requires more strength to penetrate almost ice-cold water than to jump for a split second.

About half the passengers had signed up for the jump, and as Peter and I approached the shore, we watched our fellow fools rush into the sea and come right back out. I undressed and recited prayers that I thought I had abandoned in my childhood. Peter stepped into the water and winced. “My God, that’s cold.” At my urging, he jumped in and I quickly followed him, diving below the surface.

The shock to the system was so clean and absolute that it left no room for convincing thought. Just as those who survive an accident may only remember gaps, my mind registered no pain; just the urge to get out. I rushed out of the water and, shaking violently, took off my swimsuit and hastily put on my layers. We went straight into a waiting Zodiac and were taken back to the ship for a hot shower and a cup of tea. It took a long time for our toes to warm up, but it was worth it to earn our stripes.

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Encounter penguins and their chicks on Barrientos Island

That afternoon we had our fourth and final landing of the trip: a colony of gentoo and chinstrap penguins on Barrientos Island. Nobody told us beforehand that there would be another surprise. The colony had had a successful breeding season and was full of penguin chicks. We had the privilege of watching them nest and feed. In a journey full of extraordinary moments, this was the perfect ending.

Back on the ship, I watched the horizon from an empty deck, once again calmed by the great white continent. Antarctica offers a wealth of breathtaking moments, but even at its quietest, with no bottlenose penguins or lazy whales, it has a size and majesty that will leave you feeling breathless.

Some say a trip to Antarctica is driven by ego: a narcissistic desire to check off all seven continents. For me it was the ultimate freedom; the freedom I missed and longed for in those early years at home. This journey wasn't so much about crossing a circle, but about closing the circle, returning home, only this time to one where I'm finally at peace.

Antarctica: the essentials

What: A 10-day expedition to the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula with Albatros Expeditions.

Where: We stayed in a Balcony Suite on the Ocean Victory, a state-of-the-art small ship with 93 cabins, all with ocean views and 90% with private balconies. Our suite included a double bed, a sitting area, a bathroom and a private balcony, as well as bathrobes, slippers and a hairdryer.

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The Ocean Victory is equipped with two restaurants and a grill deck, two bars including one with panoramic views, a pool, spa, gym, shop, library and lecture room. Please note that some of these amenities may be closed depending on Covid restrictions.

When: The best time to travel to Antarctica is November to March, when it is summer on the continent. December to February are particularly good months as temperatures are regularly above zero.

How: We visited Antarctica on the 10-day South Shetland Islands and Antarctic Peninsula expedition on Ocean Victory. Prices start at $14,990 per person for a Balcony Suite based on two people occupancy and $6,990 per person for a triple cabin (porthole only) based on three people sharing.

Discounts and special offers can be found near departure dates. Check Adventure Life and Cruise Norway in the US or Wildfoot, Swoop or Audley Travel in the UK.

Prices include all Zodiac landings, an expedition parka, wellies rental, guided tours and lectures, all meals on board and 24-hour tea and coffee. The kayaking and camping trips as well as internet access are extra. We purchased two hours of internet for the duration of the expedition ($50) as we wanted to limit our online time.

In Ushuaia and the rest of Argentina, we stayed online with a Keepgo Lifetime World LTE SIM card, which connects to local 4G networks in over 100 countries. Use this referral link to get 10% off any Keepgo product.

We flew from London to Buenos Aires, where we stayed at the Hotel Club Francés, a large and historic hotel in the heart of the elegant Recoleta district. From there we took a domestic flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

One final note: take all your USD cash with you and exchange it for local currency once you're in Argentina. The country's "Blue Dollar" rate means you get a lot more for your money compared to withdrawing from an ATM or paying with a card.

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Disclosure: We were hosted on Ocean Victory as guests of Albatros Expeditions, who covered the full cost of the expedition. We financed all flights, transfers, staff allowances, on-shore accommodation and expenses ourselves. We never guarantee positive coverage and all opinions are our own.

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