Visiting Kon Tiki, the raft that crossed an ocean

Visiting Kon Tiki, the raft that crossed an ocean

In 1947, Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl crossed the Pacific Ocean on Kon Tiki, a rudimentary raft made of balsa wood. We took a trip to see the legendary ship

“Your mother and father will be very saddened when they hear of your death,” Thor Heyerdahl was told as he prepared to cross the Pacific by raft.

The dimensions of the raft were wrong, it was so small that it would sink at sea, the balsa logs would break under strain or become wet a quarter into the sea, storms and hurricanes would wash the crew overboard, and salt water would instantly peel the skin off their legs - the warnings were never-ending.

In fact, according to the experts, “there was not a piece of rope, not a knot, not a measure, not a piece of wood in the entire raft that would not cause us to sink at sea,” Heyerdahl wrote in his first-hand account of the dangerous journey.

And yet the Norwegian explorer persisted in his so-called suicide mission. His intention? To prove the theory that migrants from South America may have populated Polynesia in pre-Columbian times.

Critics called it impossible and warned that the makeshift rafts of pre-Inca peoples could not navigate thousands of miles of open ocean to reach the distant islands using Stone Age technology.

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The Kon Tiki route across the Pacific

For the Kon Tiki expedition, Heyerdahl wanted to complete the journey using only the materials and equipment available in pre-Columbian times, thereby proving that such a journey was possible. The expedition carried some modern equipment, such as a radio, maps, sextants and metal knives, but Heyerdahl argued that they accidentally proved that the raft itself could make the journey.

During an extensive research trip to Polynesia's Fatu Hiva, Heyerdahl had noted the presence of South American plants such as the sweet potato, as well as similarities between stone figures on Fatu Hiva and the structures built by ancient South American civilizations.

He also saw similarities in the physical appearances, rituals, and myths of the Polynesians and South Americans, and heard Polynesian elders speak of a demigod named Tiki who came to the islands from a great land beyond the eastern horizon.

Despite his lack of sailing experience - and the fact that he couldn't swim - Heyerdahl set out to prove his theory was possible. He raised money through private loans, U.S. Army equipment donations, and a five-man crew with the promise of "nothing but a free trip to Peru and the South Sea Islands and back."

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An open bamboo hut provided Kon Tiki's only protection from the elements

Heyerdahl's small team consisted of Erik Hesselberg, navigator and artist; Bengt Danielsson, translator and clerk; Knut Haugland, radio expert; Torstein Raaby, radio operator; and Hermann Watzinger, engineer.

The men traveled to Peru and built the 30-foot-by-15-foot Kon Tiki from nine balsa wood logs tied together with hemp rope, in an indigenous style recorded in illustrations by Spanish conquistadors. An open bamboo hut with a banana leaf roof provided the only protection from the elements.

With a blow of a coconut against the bow, the raft was named Kon Tiki, after the Peruvian sun god who was said to have disappeared westward across the sea; a mythical figure that reflected the Polynesian demigod Tiki, who came from the East.

Kon Tiki set off from Peru on the afternoon of April 28, 1947 and began his epic journey across the Pacific Ocean.

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Original images from the Kon Tiki expedition

It was this legendary raft that we looked at on our last trip to Oslo, Norway. We took the short bus ride from Oslo center to Bygdøy with its trio of museums: the Fram, the Kon Tiki and the Viking Ship Museum.

Peter, being a polar explorer junkie, was most excited to see the Fram. I, having read Heyerdahl's book several years earlier, was more excited to see Kon Tiki.

In the foyer of the Kon Tiki Museum, we unpacked our many layers and headed straight to the main attraction. There stood the ship of legends in dim light.

I stared at it for a minute, feeling surprisingly unmoved. It seemed unreal somehow: a recreation or cartoon version of something more serious. I checked and confirmed that it was indeed the original raft. It looked too clean, too intact.

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The main attraction at the Kon Tiki Museum

I walked around the raft, trying to conjure up images of the six men navigating by sun and stars, guided by winds and currents as they beat against waves towering over their masts. Due to their remote location, rescue would have been almost impossible.

As I stood there next to Kon Tiki, my apathy was perhaps best explained by the surrealism of it all. Heyerdahl and his men sailed over 6,900 km (4,300 miles) of the Pacific Ocean for 101 days. I saw about the same distance of the same ocean and couldn't quite understand how they did it in a makeshift raft using stone age technology.

After 101 days at sea, Kon Tiki crashed onto a reef on the island of Raroia on August 7, 1947.

The men were greeted by locals from a nearby island who arrived in canoes after spotting flotsam from the raft. Heyerdahl and his men were taken to Tahiti - the salvaged Kon Tiki in tow - and soon enjoyed international recognition for successfully completing the voyage and proving that Heyerdahl's theory might actually be correct.

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Unfortunately, in later years, linguistic and genetic research proved that Polynesia was populated by peoples from Asia who arrived in an eastward migration. Heyerdahl had thought it impossible for the navigators to set sail against the prevailing winds.

In truth, it was precisely the fact that they could harness the westerly wind to return home safely in the event of failure that encouraged these ancient explorers to sail into the Pacific Abyss.

The fact that it was difficult to reconcile the ship in the museum with Heyerdahl's legendary voyage speaks to the magnitude of his achievement. It may have been the indifference I felt at first, but seeing Kon Tiki in the flesh reminded me of the courage of the explorers of our past.

Even though there is little of the world left to explore, there is still a lot to discover, and we would all do well to gather our courage and try something new, even if there is a good chance we will fail.

Kon Tiki Museum: The Essentials

What: Visit the Kon Tiki Museum in Oslo and see the legendary raft that crossed the Pacific Ocean.

Where: We stayed at the Scandic Vulkan Hotel, a modern and eco-friendly hotel in the vibrant Vulkan district, not far from the center of Oslo. The hotel is Norway's first energy class A hotel - meaning it generates almost all of its own energy.

The stylish rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the surrounding neighborhoods, while breakfast - complete with waffle makers and cappuccino machines - is plentiful!

Just next door is the Mathallen Food Hall with a range of boutique restaurants and bars, as well as the Akerselva River, perfect for post-breakfast strolls.

When: For the best weather, spring and summer (May to August) are the best times to visit Oslo. Out of season, you can expect days to be cold and wet under dark skies.

From late autumn the ferries no longer run; buses are the only alternative. Although the buses run regularly, they are nowhere near as pleasant as the ferries and offer far more worldly views.

How: The Kon Tiki Museum in Oslo is located in Bygdøy, a short bus or ferry ride from the city center. The ferry, which runs from early April to early October, leaves from Pier 3 behind Oslo City Hall (Oslo Rådhuset) and takes 10-15 minutes.

If the ferry is not running, take bus number 30 instead. This can be boarded at the quay near the town hall or from the city center and takes around 15 minutes.

There are several other notable museums scattered across the Bygdøy peninsula, including the Fram, the Viking Ship, the Norwegian Maritime Museum and the Norwegian Folk Museum. All are a 15-minute walk from each other.

With this in mind, it's worth buying an Oslo Pass, which includes free entry to more than 30 Oslo museums and attractions as well as free travel on all public transport. The pass is available in three denominations:

24 hours: 335 NOK (40 USD)48 hours: 490 NOK (58 USD)72 hours: 620 NOK (74 USD) – we chose this one

We flew from London to Oslo with a budget airline. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

Oslo is served by three airports: Gardermoen, Torp Sandefjord and Rygge. We recommend using Gardermoen if possible, as the other two are further away and require a longer and more expensive transfer. All airports are served by trains and buses. For more information, visit the Visit Oslo website.

For more things to do in Oslo, check out the Lonely Planet Guide to Norway.

Additional Photography: Fair Use

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