6 tips for visiting Asuncion, Paraguay

6 tips for visiting Asuncion, Paraguay

We explore Asunción, Paraguay and share six useful tips

“Paraguay – The Heart of South America” is how the landlocked country presents itself. We're assuming they mean geographically because it could just as easily be described as "The Nowhere of South America." In fact, it often is.

Nestled between Bolivia, Argentina and Brazil (and by "nested" we mean "languishing"), Paraguay doesn't have a single majestic attraction like Bolivia's salt flats, Argentina's Perito Moreno or Brazil's Iguassu Falls. Paraguay is not only one of the poorest countries on the continent, with more than a third of the population living below the poverty line, but also one of the most corrupt.

Author Rory Maclean wrote: “As tea is to China and cuckoo clocks are to Switzerland, so are weapons to Paraguay.” Author Robert Carver describes his escape from Asunción with a similar feeling: "Exhilaration, pure bliss, a feeling of absolute freedom. I could certainly go anywhere."

And so one might ask, what was our verdict? Hyperbole aside, we found Asunción to be a colorful, characterful city that is more authentic than some of its more famous counterparts (Santiago, Lima) and far prettier than others (La Paz). It offered a chance to get off the beaten backpacker path and catch your breath before Brazil. That said, it wasn't all smooth sailing. Here are six things you should know before you go.

1. Be confident in restaurant service

Our first experience with Paraguayan restaurant culture was amazing. We entered Bolsi and were greeted with a horseshoe-shaped communal seating area. Every seat was taken, so we politely hung around the door hoping for direction. When no one came, we approached a counter, but the staff was clearly busy serving a full house. After a while we decided to try somewhere else.

The second place we visited - a generic pizza/pasta shop called Bellini - was full of empty tables but had a 30-deep line at the counter. Did they do table service or not? We had no idea. After a few minutes we decided to try somewhere else.

Finally we ended up at Na Eustaquia, a jack of all trades, master of all cuisines. We took our seats and were summarily ignored. After 10 minutes we asked at the counter if we could have a menu. “Of course,” came the magnanimous reply. Ordering our dishes was a two-menu affair with a lot of folding and hand-wringing.

The moral of the story is: If you are confused about how things work, be assertive and ask for clarity. Paraguayans are super friendly and happy to help, but you have to ask first.

Quick tip: For more traditional service, try Taberna Española, a beautiful Spanish restaurant with great service, refreshing sangria and the best fresh bread we've eaten in South America.

2. See the city on foot

Asunción is packed with free (or very cheap) historical sites, almost all of which can be visited on foot.

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We enjoyed the Estación Ferrocarril museum and train station, where you can board and explore two old trains and learn about the history behind South America's first railway line (courtesy of the British, of course). Other sights include the Palacio López palace (don't enter the grounds unless you like being warned off by armed guards...), the Panteón de los Héroes and the Teatro Municipal, where if you're lucky you can catch a last-minute show.

There are also a wealth of museums for culture lovers, including the Casa de la Independencia for Paraguayan history, the Museo Memoria de la Ciudad for a historical guide to Asunción, and the Museo Naval Humaitá, a naval museum aboard a battlecruiser.

3. Ask for directions more than once

Normally I am more than willing to take responsibility for misunderstood instructions as my Spanish is very advanced, but that willingness was certainly tested in Asunción.

At the Terminal de Omnibus, a station guard sent us up, a ticket agent sent us down, and the tourist office sent us out - all in search of a single departure point. This was a recurring phenomenon. Try to research your trip and destination in advance and check all directions.

4. Get an idea of ​​their sense of humor

What Asunción lacks in wow factor, it makes up for in personality. Make an effort to connect with Paraguayans who have a cheeky sense of humor. Don't be surprised if they joke or tease you; that's just their way.

I found that with my Spanish skills, the locals were very friendly and genuinely interested in what life was like in London (they seemed particularly fascinated by our skyscrapers). Although English is not generally spoken, those who do speak it will be eager to try out their skills, so do it.

5. Get out of town

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We only had a few days in the city, so we only planned a day trip from Asunción (to the rather disappointing Aregua).

If you can, make time for sightseeing further afield. Top options include the UNESCO Jesuit missions of La Santísima Trinidad de Paraná and Jesús de Tavarangue, the pretty beaches of Laguna Blanca, the Atlantic Forest in the San Rafael Nature Reserve, a visit to the colonial town of Concepción, and a tour of the Chaco, South America's largest dry forest.

A visit to the impressive Itaipu Dam, which can be seen from Paraguay or Brazil, is also recommended. The staff at the Hotel Palmas del Sol will be happy to advise you on the organization.

6. Check (and recheck) important discrepancies

“It is almost always expected that flights and buses are not scheduled,” we read when researching Paraguay. When our bus from Asunción to Ciudad del Este (the crossing point to the Iguassu Falls in Brazil) was late, we were far from panicked. As the minutes passed, I checked with a station guard and the tourist office. They both assured me it was fine.

Finally I left Peter on the platform and ran up to the ticket office. The agent there told me the bus had changed platforms, changed company and changed departure time and was leaving... oh, now.

I ran downstairs, grabbed Peter and ran to the new platform. With apologies, we dragged our backpacks into the storage area and found our seats with seconds to spare. If your bus is late, find your ticket counter and check your departure.

Asunción, Paraguay: The essentials

What: A stay in Asuncion, Paraguay.

Where: We stayed at Hotel Palmas del Sol, a 10-minute walk from the city center. Palmas was clean and comfortable with friendly, helpful staff. The rooms are equipped with WiFi, reliable hot water, a television and a refrigerator. If possible, ask for a courtyard room as these offer better views than the interior rooms.

A breakfast buffet offers a variety of dishes, and an on-site plunge pool offers a great way to cool off after a day in the Asunción sun. Reception staff are available 24 hours a day and can advise on a range of day trips and organize taxis and a shuttle to Silvio Pettirossi Airport.

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When: The best time to visit Asunción is between May and September, when temperatures are not as hot, humid and stuffy as in the summer months.

How: You can fly to Asunción, Paraguay from most major South American cities (book through skyscanner.net). Buses are also an option. For international travel, try Crucero del Norte or Omnilineas. For domestic travel, inquire at the Terminal de Omnibus or ask your hotel staff for advice.

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Lonely Planet South America contains a comprehensive travel guide to Asunción, Paraguay, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

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