Iron Nerve: Via Ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees

Iron Nerve: Via Ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees

Our trip to Catalonia begins with a via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees that tests my nerves, strength and flexibility

I lean out of the rock face and even though I'm attached in three different places, my heart beats nervously as I look at the ground. I'm only a few feet above it, but hanging from an iron rung and leaning into the abyss goes against my natural instincts.

Jordi, our experienced guide from Outdoor Adventour, tells me to lean further out. “You need to know that if you have to do that up there, you’re safe down here.”

“Up there” are 200m of rugged cliffs punctuated by iron rungs screwed into the rock. Together the rungs form our via ferrata or “iron path” up the face of the Tossal de Miravet near Pont de Suert in the Lleida Pyrenees in Catalonia.

alt=“Via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees 10″>Atlas & BootsTossal de Miravet in the Catalan Pyrenees

Via ferratas were first used in the 19th century by farmers in the European Alps to connect villages to higher pastures, and were later used by soldiers in World War I to gain access to peaks for observation posts and field guns.

Today the via ferrata is used for relaxation, which is why I'm dangling on the wall of the Tossal de Miravet in the Catalan Pyrenees.

Invited to the region as part of a “mystery trip,” I had no idea I would be trying out via ferratas until minutes before the climb. I was mentally unprepared but really wanted to give it a try.

Peter, who had done the Queenstown via ferrata just months before, asked if I was nervous. I was full of bravado, truly confident that via ferratas in the Catalan Pyrenees would pale in comparison to the 450-foot Nevis Bungy or jumping out of a plane at 16,000 feet. I'm not afraid of heights and am relatively nimble, so I thought this would be fun and not too difficult.

alt=“Peter proves to be a pro on our via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees”>Atlas & BootsPeter proves to be a professional on our via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees

My first challenge was to master the carabiners holding us in place. As I wrote in Riding in Montenegro, I have inexplicable problems with gauges, clasps, zippers, buckles, knots and locks. On a via ferrata, climbers must attach two carabiners to a steel cable that runs parallel to the iron rungs, switching them from one section of rope to another as they go higher.

A third carabiner can be attached to the rung itself if they need to lean outward - like I do now. Jordi tells me to clap my hands to make sure I lean out safely. I do and he grins, the first hint of his penchant for mischief.

We set off in earnest: Jordi first, then Naomi (our companion from the tourist office), then Peter and finally me. I'm happy to see that Naomi is slower than me. (Sorry Naomi, but no one likes to be the weakest link!) Jordi helps her, which gives me time to climb without embarrassment. Via ferratas are not particularly graceful for beginners.

We move higher along the first of three walls and I draw on my strength, agility and composure to get further up. I am fully aware that I am responsible for my own safety, which makes this very different from bungee or skydiving. With these activities you are never out of the hands of an expert. A few missteps here could bring me down, and even though my rational brain knows I'm completely safe, at some point my left leg starts shaking uncontrollably. I have never experienced anything like this and I know that I should be afraid. It has a strange, academic quality to it and a distant part of me thinks, "Huh, so that's how it is."

alt=“I continue to focus on via ferratas in the Catalan Pyrenees”>Atlas & BootsStay focused

I brace myself against the iron rung and take a few deep breaths to stabilize myself. It really only goes up. I remember that children aged 14 and over are allowed on the via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees, so it really can't be that hard.

I ignore the feeling of being so exposed and continue up. Soon we reach our first plateau and Naomi and I collapse in relief. This is really something different. Neither Peter nor Jordi believe me when I say this is scarier than Bungy.

We take a moment to enjoy the views of the Boi Valley, the Pont de Suert and the Noguera Ribagorçana River. Oh, the reprieve is fleeting and soon it will start again.

alt="Enjoy our break on our via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees">Atlas & BootsEnjoy a break on our via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees

We climb higher and begin to tackle sections with large gaps between the rungs, hardly ideal for someone who is barely 5ft 2in tall. We soon reach a “Nepali bridge”, a cable stretched over a precipice that we have to cross on foot.

Stepping onto the bridge is wild and exciting. However, as the rope sways, I realize that it's somehow less scary than the via ferrata itself. Maybe it's because I don't have to swap carabiners, which makes me feel safer. Of course, it would still be terrible to lose your footing. I can't imagine what dangling 100m above the ground does to your confidence.

alt=“Crossing a Nepalese bridge on our via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees”>Atlas & BootsCrossing a suspension bridge

As I reach the middle of the bridge, Jordi, our resident jester, starts swinging the rope with his foot. I'm amazed but also amused and threaten to hit him when I'm safe. I notice that he doesn't do the same to Naomi, so I like to think he can judge who can handle his comedy and who can't.

We soon reach a second suspension bridge. We cross this quickly, but at the end there is a sharp bend and Jordi practically has to pull me around the corner. A little further on, Peter drops his lens cap above me and lands on a ridge meters below my feet. I dismount, tuck it into my shirt, climb back up and hand it to him, feeling closer to James Bond than ever before.

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Atlas & Boots

Soon we reach a second plateau. Jordi says that we are moving relatively slowly and asks if we want to call it a day or try the last rock face. He explains that the last wall has the strange collapse and the iron rungs are even fewer and further apart.

Naomi and I look at each other and then back at Jordi. “We’re happy to stop,” we say in unison and with relief.

alt=“Finish line on our via ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees”>Atlas & BootsEveryone is smiling at the finish line

I found via ferratas in the Catalan Pyrenees difficult, not only because I was largely responsible for my own safety, but also because of the duration of the activity. With a skydive or bungee jump, you gather your courage and take a jump and the experience is over in a few minutes. With via ferrata you have a long and tense stretch of activity with extremely high intensity.

Now that I've done it, of course I want to do it again. I can see that it was incredibly fun and I regret not completing the route. Of course there is only one way to deal with this and that is to return to the Catalan Pyrenees.

Via ferratas in the Catalan Pyrenees: the essentials

What: Via ferrata at Tossal de Miravet in the Catalan Pyrenees.

• Länge: Klettersteig 420 m, insgesamt 2,8 km
• Höhenmeter: Klettersteig 200m, insgesamt 280m
• Dauer: Klettersteig 2-3 Stunden, plus 20 Minuten Ein- und 40 Minuten Ausstieg
• Schwierigkeit: Mittel

Where: We stayed at Hotel L’Aüt in Erill la Vall, a 20-minute drive from the ECEM Escola de Muntanya via ferrata meeting point.

Hotel L’Aüt is a cozy hotel in the medieval village of Erill la Vall in the Boi Valley. The charming stone building stands opposite Santa Eulàlia d’Erill la Vall, one of the area's famous Romanesque churches.

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Hotel L’Aüt

The rooms are typical of cozy mountain huts, with wooden shutters, sloping ceilings and dim lighting creating a decidedly cozy atmosphere.

The hotel features a terrace, living room and an on-site restaurant serving a selection of delicious local dishes, perfect for dinner followed by a stroll through the picturesque village streets.

When: Via Ferrata in the Catalan Pyrenees is available from May to October.

How: Via ferratas in the Catalan Pyrenees are offered by Outdoor Adventour, a local company run by the charismatic CEO Pepo, with the support of a team of very experienced guides including Jordi, Edu and Marc, who took excellent care of us during our time in Catalonia.

Contact the team via the website, by email at info@outdooradventour.com or by phone on +34 973 043 409 / +34 654 093 295 to book activities and arrange transfers.

We flew into Barcelona-El Prat Airport (BCN), which has good connections to the rest of Catalonia. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Disclosure: We traveled to Catalonia with the support of the Catalan Tourist Board. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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