Climbing Nevis Peak without a guide, St. Kitts & Nevis

Climbing Nevis Peak without a guide, St. Kitts & Nevis

Nevis looks more like a rolling hill than a volcano – until you try to climb Nevis Peak without a guide. Then it turns out to be an impressive achievement!

If you're ever on the tiny island of Nevis in the Caribbean, you'll certainly notice Nevis Peak, the 3,232-foot-tall volcano that provides a beautiful backdrop to the picturesque island.

Climbing Nevis Peak without a guide

With its lush and verdant greenery, Nevis looks more like a rolling hill than a volcano – until you try to climb Nevis Peak without a guide. Then it reveals itself as the impressive achievement that it really is.

When Peter and I decided to climb it without a guide last spring, we first looked online for advice. Reviews on TripAdvisor were mixed with some warning that it was treacherous and others claiming it was a walk in the park.

There didn't seem to be a consensus, so we decided to ask a few locals. That’s where we found consistency; a consistent “You can’t do this alone.” Some tourists say that this is a ploy to line the pockets of local guides, but I don't think that's true. The people we spoke to seemed really concerned.

It turns out they were right: climbing Nevis Peak without a guide is pretty darn hard. It's steep, wet, muddy and not for the faint of heart... but it's doable. Here's our 10-step guide to going it alone.

Climb with someone experienced

First, you should know that climbing Nevis Peak without a guide is not a walk in the park, despite what some reviewers say. As described in this article for Rough Guides, I found it wet, muddy, physically challenging and treacherous at times.

If you don't have an experienced trekker or climber in your group, I advise against going alone as the trail is easy to lose. When I was ahead, I hit a dead end several times without knowing where to go next. It was Peter who picked up the path and showed the way. Without his expertise, we would have gotten lost multiple times instead of just once (more on that below).

If you are physically fit and not easily fearful, you can climb the peak without a guide, as long as someone in your group knows how to follow a trail.

alt=“Climbing Nevis Peak”>The climb is steep, so be prepared to pull yourself up using the pre-installed ropes

Take decent gear

Our decision to climb Nevis Peak was spontaneous, so we didn't have the right equipment. Without Sidney, a spirited American who lent me her trekking sandals, we wouldn't have been able to climb it at all.

Aside from my flip flops, I had a pair of ballet flats for walking and high heels for eating. Even with Sidney's shoes, my feet were soaked for most of the climb - an unpleasant feeling that can easily be prevented. Wear decent hiking shoes, take a waterproof jacket and pack a compass. This is more of a climb than a hike, so having the right equipment helps immensely.

alt=“Muddy sandals after climbing Nevis Peak”>We couldn’t have climbed without these borrowed trekking sandals

Pack supplies

Before leaving the hotel, Peter had the foresight to grab a Snickers bar from the minibar “in case we get hungry.” I can't tell you how grateful I was halfway through the climb. We had pulled ourselves up on ropes most of the way when a downpour began.

We took shelter and split the candy bar – a godsend for my weary and weary limbs. Don't make the same mistake we made: pack lots of energy bars and lots of water. You will sweat on the way up and need to rehydrate. Also, take a few plastic bags with you to protect the car seats on the drive back to the hotel - you'll need them.

Tell someone about your plans

We didn't tell anyone we were attempting the peak alone because we knew the locals would discourage us. Even our driver, Leroy, was told that we would “only hike the first 15 minutes to see what it’s like.”

Later, when the hotel staff congratulated us, they told us about a couple who had gotten lost on the Peak the year before and had to be rescued. I wondered what would have happened if we had gotten lost in a similar way - none of the hotel staff would have known we were missing. To be on the safe side, let the hotel know your plans and check in later in the day.

Find out directions before you go

Since the locals are reluctant to let you climb the peak, they will probably be silent if you ask them for directions. So make sure you know how to find your way beforehand. Start on Rawlins Road in Gingerland and head uphill, following signs to Peak Haven. The concrete road will give way to a gravel path. Keep going until you can't go in anymore.

If you took a taxi, ask to be dropped off here; Otherwise, park in front of the Peak Haven gate. Go through the gate. To your left you will see a children's playground and further gates which will take you into the grounds of Peak Haven. Don't go through that. Take what looks like a lightly traveled dirt road with lots of vegetation uphill to the summit. The trail is picked up from there. Again, it's really important to have someone in your group who knows how to follow a trail.

Pay attention to the entry point

As you find your way to the trailhead, it becomes easy to become complacent because you are not “on the mountain” yet. Don't do this: Be aware of your surroundings. We traveled all the way up the peak and all the way down until we were about 15 minutes from the finish.

Because we hadn't paid attention for the first 10 minutes, we started second-guessing ourselves when we came across a clearing we thought we hadn't passed on the way there. Tired and exhausted, we backed out and chose another route. This time we were sure we hadn't seen that path, so we headed back to the one we had originally followed.

We followed him for 10 minutes, unsure if we were lost, until we finally came to a clearing we recognized. If we had been careful at the beginning, we could have avoided the detour and the worry that came with it.

Take it slow

Some reviewers say they reached the summit in 1.5 hours, but it took us almost 2.5 hours, albeit with a 15-minute break to wait for a downpour. Don't stress if you're not there after 2 hours. Peter and I began to worry and agreed that if we weren't there in another 30 minutes we would turn back.

alt=“Climbing Nevis Peak”>Lush greenery flanks an unexpectedly difficult climb

Once you're sure you're on track, don't give up just because it took longer than average. Parts of the trail are dangerous where one misstep could result in you falling off a ledge. So be careful and go slowly!

Sign in the guest book

We didn't know about the treasure trove of guest books until the hotel staff casually mentioned it just before we left. This white chest is hidden under some bushes at the peak, so make sure you hunt it down. There you will find several volumes with comments from enthusiastic summiteers. Bring a pen and leave your mark.

alt=“The “treasure chest” of guest books found while climbing Nevis Peak”>The “treasure chest” of guest books

alt=“My addition to the latest volume during the ascent of Nevis Peak”>My addition to the latest volume

Don't do it for the view

Some reviewers comment on the gorgeous views, but the peak is often shrouded in pillowy clouds even in good weather. Unfortunately we climbed on a particularly rainy day, so the summit looked like this:

alt=“Don’t climb Nevis Peak for the views…”>Don’t climb Nevis for the views…

Two days later the weather was much better, but the summit was still cloudy. Do it for the experience and not the view.

alt=”Even in good weather, the peak is often shrouded in clouds and climbs Nevis Peak”>Even in good weather, the peak is often shrouded in clouds

Don't worry about relegation

For most of the climb, I silently worried about the descent. In some places I had to kick myself up, but what was I supposed to do if I couldn't see them on the way down? I didn't express these concerns to Peter because I knew he was already worried about me.

He, a confident climber, had stopped at one point and told me he didn't think it was a good idea to go any further. We had encountered a series of slippery rocks with little footing or support. I convinced him I would be fine, but I was secretly worried about getting around.

Actually, I shouldn't have worried. Much of the descent can be done on your butt, making the descent much quicker and safer than the ascent.

alt=“Don’t climb Nevis Peak for the views…”>Finally at the summit…

All in all, it was one of the most exciting things I've done in my life and I would recommend it to anyone who thinks they can handle it.
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