Tall Ship Sailing Adventure off the West Coast of Scotland
I joined the Lady of Avenel for a week of tall ship adventures sailing around the Inner Hebrides archipelago off the west coast of mainland Scotland. This summer I joined the tall ship Lady of Avenel to sail around the Inner Hebrides archipelago. Once the sails were furled, we jettisoned kayaks and paddleboards and headed ashore, exploring wild beaches, rugged bays and traditional fishing villages along the way. Unhindered by ferry schedules, busy roads or footpaths, we were able to reach some of Scotland's most remote landscapes; Landscape to which only…
Tall Ship Sailing Adventure off the West Coast of Scotland
I joined the Lady of Avenel for a week of tall ship adventures sailing around the Inner Hebrides archipelago off the west coast of mainland Scotland
This summer I joined the tall ship Lady of Avenel to sail around the Inner Hebrides archipelago. Once the sails were furled, we jettisoned kayaks and paddleboards and headed ashore, exploring wild beaches, rugged bays and traditional fishing villages along the way.
Unhindered by ferry schedules, busy roads or footpaths, we were able to reach some of Scotland's most remote landscapes; Landscape to which only the sea has access. Lady of Avenel's unique approach to tall ship sailing adventures combines traditional sailing with outdoor activities.
alt=“Tall Ship Sailing Adventure Scotland 2″>Atlas & BootsThe Lady of Avenel combines traditional sailing with outdoor activities
The Lady of Avenel is a 102-foot brigantine square-rigged tall ship captained by the affable Stefan Fritz. Stefan came to the UK from Germany as a young man to study. He fell in love with Scotland and sailing and never left. After purchasing the Lady of Avenel, he founded his company focused on tall ship sailing adventures.
“I bought a solution and then went out to find a problem,” Stefan tells me one evening, halfway up the main mast. “We are different than most sailing training courses because we combine traditional sailing with outdoor activities such as paddleboarding, sea kayaking, wild swimming – even paragliding!”
old=““>Atlas & BootsExplore secluded beaches by paddleboard and kayak
It's certainly a different approach. I found myself on board because I really wanted to get some tall ship sailing experience this summer. I expected long, monotonous days at sea keeping watch. Instead, I explored remote beaches, natural caves, and old farms via paddleboard and kayak while learning the ropes of a tall ship.
I joined a tour that took a group of eight standup paddleboarders from London-based Active360 around the Inner Hebrides, one of Stefan's favorite places. I didn't have much paddleboarding experience, but the group took me under their wing and there was also a sea kayak on the ship that I used regularly.
Stefan wants to emphasize to his guests that the ship is their home for the week and they can participate as much in the sailing process as they want. If guests want to pull ropes and climb the pole, they can do so. You are also welcome to lounge on the upper deck and watch the Scottish countryside go by.
“Think of us as a floating hotel for your base camp,” he explains to the group over a welcoming cup of tea.
alt=“Tall Ship Sailing Adventure Scotland 17″>Climbing the main mast is optional but highly recommended!
The days quickly slip into a pleasant routine. After a hearty breakfast, Stefan suggested a few options and let the group decide what they wanted to do. This usually involved throwing the paddleboards overboard and exploring the beautiful Scottish coast for the morning.
We tended to return to the ship in time for an equally hearty late lunch before sailing to our anchorage for the night. In the evening over dinner there was a debriefing during which a rough plan for the next day was made. Eat, paddle, eat, sail, eat, sleep. Repeat.
alt=“Tall Ship Sailing Adventure Scotland 13″> Lie anchored in idyllic lakes and watch the sunset over a tranquil seascape
Most evenings we anchored in calm, calm and idyllic lakes and spent the evening on the ship watching the sunset over a tranquil seascape. Sometimes there was the opportunity to go ashore and visit a pub or restaurant or take a walk along a path.
There were also opportunities to stop by some of the region's more conventional tourist attractions. We visited the holy monastery of Iona, the natural caves of Staffa, the ancient Kate Ulva and the picturesque fishing village of Tobermory, where the children's television series Balamory was filmed.
alt=“Tall Ship Sailing Adventure Scotland 16″>Atlas & BootsThe island of Iona with its holy monastery
I really wanted to gain more sailing knowledge. I've had basic dinghy training in the past, but still harbor crazy dreams of sailing across the Atlantic. As Stefan mentioned, guests can participate in sailing the ship as they wish. As such, every time we moved the ship I went on deck and tried to make myself useful.
We had the square sails hoisted on several occasions and twice went under full sail with all but the inner jibs flying. There was plenty of opportunity for setting sails, rigging and helming (steering). The crew was always on hand and happy to talk about their life on board or show you how to use instruments or tie knots and the like.
alt=“Tall Ship Sailing Adventure Scotland 12″>Under full sail on a wet but windy day
It was the first time I had actually used paddleboards and the sea of the Hebrides is a far cry from the resorts I had paddled at before. The group was mixed ability and experience was not required. Some days I used the ship's sea kayak, which I felt much more comfortable in.
The advantage of paddleboards is that you can see so much more standing up than sitting in a kayak. It's easier to see beneath the surface and feels calmer than kayaking - a bit like walking on water. However, I found it more difficult than most others in the group to keep my balance, especially in choppy water. I was told this would come with experience.
alt=“Tall Ship Sailing Adventure Scotland Essentials15″>Atlas & BootsThe first mate explains how to set square sails
The landscape in the region is some of the most beautiful in Scotland and is dotted with medieval castles, secluded beaches with only seals for company and traditional fishing villages that have existed for thousands of years. Our itinerary was not dictated by tour operators or ferry schedules; We were able to spend as much or as little time at our destinations as we wanted.
Our visit to the tiny island of Staffa, with its striking hexagonal columns and the magnificent Fingal’s Cave, was a real highlight. After paddling around the caves, we tied up our boards and explored the island on foot. As we sat quietly over the cliffs eating our picnic lunch and smugly watching boatloads of tourists being carted off, we had the whole island almost to ourselves.
alt=“Tall Ship-Sailing-Adventure-Scotland-Staffa-1″>Atlas & BootsWhen we sat down and ate our picnic lunch, we had the entire island almost to ourselves
As we entered the water on our boards that day, Stefan called out to us, "Just take a moment to appreciate where you are and what you're doing. You're on a paddleboard next to a tall ship off the west coast of Scotland. What more could you ask for?" He winked at us.
As I looked back at the ship across the open sea, with the island of Staffa before me and the Atlantic stretching to my left, I suddenly felt very small and so very free. I took a deep breath and dug my paddle into the water. What else could I want?
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The route
We roughly followed the itinerary below, but as I said, the ship and route are really in the hands of the guests.
Day 1: Meet in Oban, embark, sail to Loch SpelveDay 2: Paddleboard Loch Spelve and Loch Uisg, meet the boat, sail to LochbuieDay 3: Sail near the Sound of Iona, paddleboard into the Sound, visit Iona, sail to Loch ScridainDay 4: Sail to Staffa, explore Staffa by paddleboard, sail to the Sound of Ulva, hike through the area. Day 5: Paddleboard around the Sound of Ulva, lunch in the boathouse, sail to Tobermory, dinner ashore Sound, return to ship and relaxationDay 7: Sail to Oban, paddle into harbor, disembark the ship
Tall Ship Sailing Adventures: The Essentials
What: Six nights, seven days sailing adventure on tall ships aboard the square-rigged ship Lady of Avenel.
Where: I joined the Lady of Avenel in Oban, a small fishing village on the west coast of Scotland. There are many hotels in the city to suit every budget.
Life on board the Lady of Avenel was much more pleasant than I expected. The ship can accommodate up to 12 guests in twin cabins that are warm and comfortable and have electricity and even a small sink.
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The mess deck was cozy and comfortable with space to sit around two large tables. There was a small wood-burning stove if needed, as well as plenty of sailing books, charts and charts to add real old world charm to the experience.
The meal times were a real surprise. The food was absolutely delicious and incredibly plentiful with meals usually consisting of three courses. Tea, coffee and treats such as homemade biscuits or cakes were available throughout the day and packed lunches were provided for longer paddling days.
When: The best time to visit Scotland for tall ship sailing adventures and other outdoor activities is the summer months of June, July and August. However, this is also high season and coincides with the school holidays from late July to August.
Although this is – theoretically – summer, the weather in Scotland is unpredictable at best at any time of year. Summer days are generally milder or warmer than any other time of year and, most importantly, offer many hours of daylight - often until 9 p.m. or later.
The off-season, particularly the months of May and September, can be as mild as summer and are therefore also good times to visit. October and April are hard to predict!
The winter days from November to March are short with harsh weather. Only hardened winter mountaineers and skiers venture into the hills, and you rarely see anyone at sea other than local fishermen.
How: The Lady of Avenel hosts a series of tall ship sailing adventures. Options include sea kayaking, paddleboarding, wild swimming, mountain hiking, father and son sailing training, whiskey tours and passage cruises. Sessions and sailing trips with musical themes are even planned for 2018. The six night/seven day paddleboarding experience costs £1,295, including all food, accommodation, equipment and coaching.
The latest schedules are available on the website, but it may be best to contact Stefan directly (stefan@heritage-marine.com) or through their office (office@sfships.com) to find out the latest departures and available options.
I drove from southern England to Oban and camped along the way, but there are bus, train and flight options. There are two free long term car parks in Oban at Longsdale Car Park and Lochavullin Car Park. Both are a 15-minute walk from the city center.
The Caledonian Sleeper runs six days a week, Sunday to Friday, from London to Glasgow, where you can change to trains to Oban. Use Scotrail to book tickets.
Megabus offers buses from London to Oban and Citylink from other destinations.
Glasgow is the nearest major airport to Oban, approximately 90 miles (142 km) away. Book via skyscanner.net for the best prices.
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