Van Journal Week 11: Federation Peak

Van Journal Week 11: Federation Peak

Last week we got a taste of Tasmania's true wilderness that left us wanting more. So this week we dove deep into Southwest National Park – one of the last true wilderness areas in the world.

There is something about the wild places of the earth that, while cruel and unforgiving, has a certain appeal that is undeniably infectious. Maybe it's because we feel small or helpless in these places. True wilderness demands respect. Putting ourselves in a position of complete vulnerability humbles us and reminds us of how insignificant we really are.

We need that today more than ever.

But we weren't wandering aimlessly into one of the most remote wilderness areas on earth. Our goal was to reach the summit of Federation Peak, an iconic tower of rock and ice that Sir Edmond Hillary called “Australia’s only true mountain.”

This was one of the most difficult hiking experiences of our lives so far, and although we didn't reach the summit, it was a great learning exercise in survival and humility.

• alt=“FEDERATION GIPFELWANDERUNG“>
• alt=“FEDERATION PEAK TASMANIEN“>
• alt=“FLUSSÜBERQUERUNG AUF DEM EASTERN ARTURS TRAVERSE TRACK ZUM FEDERATION PEAK“>

Federation Peak and Southwest National Park

Haylea and I both consider ourselves very experienced hikers. We prepare and plan wilderness hikes like this meticulously. But nothing could have prepared us mentally for the challenge ahead.

The thing about Federation Peak or Feddy is that reaching the base of the peak itself requires a long, miserable and notoriously muddy 20-kilometer traverse through dense, overgrown forest and a muddy buttongrass plain. This is a challenge in itself, but the final step is a 3 kilometer long, almost vertical root climb up a steep and eroding mountain range known as Moss Ridge. Then you have to climb steep rock and ice to the summit, with a fully exposed 600 meter drop below.

We are experienced and know our limits. We hiked everywhere and spent almost a month crossing some of the highest mountain passes in the world in the Himalayas. What many people, including us, don't initially realize is that altitude is not THE determining factor in difficulty.

The majority of the eastern Arthurs Traverse route, although sporadically hilly, is only between 450 and 1200 meters above sea level. But let me tell you, three days of being soaked to the core in sub-zero temperatures, picking leeches from our wrinkled skin, and wading over 60 kilometers through knee-to-waist-deep mud with multi-day packs has definitely increased our respect for the Australian wilderness.

But don’t get me wrong, a winter summit attempt of Federation Peak has been on my bucket list for a while. We had prepared meticulously and were never in danger or overwhelmed. But I guess what I'm trying to say is that no matter how much you plan, nothing can mentally prepare you for the miserable conditions out there.

• alt=“FEDERATION PEAK TRACK“>
• alt=“FEDERATION PEAK TASMANIA WANDERUNG“>
• alt=“ÜBERFLUTETE STRECKE AUF DER EASTERN ARTHUR TRAVERSE TRACK“>

The saturated, sad southwest

Tasmania, and Southwest National Park in particular, is known to be incredibly unpredictable when it comes to the weather. We thought we had the perfect 3 day window to drive to the edge of Southwest National Park, hike to the remote peak, and return. The weather was supposed to be on our side, no wind or even clouds were forecast for the next few days.

After making the bumpy ride to Farmhouse Creek, we experienced this infamous unpredictability first hand. We spent the night sleepless in the van and thought “this rain will surely stop soon”. Of course, rain isn't a problem if you're warm and healthy in your well-insulated home on wheels. It was the thought of being thrown into one of the muddiest, wildest places in the world that kept us awake.

The rain didn't stop. At first light we received updated weather forecasts on our satellite phone, which convinced us that this bad weather would finally be over by midday. Of course it wouldn't.

But we were prepared. We have the right equipment, the right fitness, the bush skills and the stubbornness to keep going. All very necessary components of an endeavor like Federation Peak.
alt=“BEGIN THE FARMHOUSE CREEK TRACK TO FEDERATION PEAK”>
After relentless rain, this route was almost completely flooded from the start. The winter conditions brought snow to a depth of 500 meters and the rivers and streams rushed through the valleys and down the slopes of the rainforest ridges.

The walk was hard. And in the end, we never made it to the summit of the Federation Summit. We made it to the Berchevaise plateau, just below the final climb. The slippery, icy conditions meant it wasn't safe for us to climb. We were extremely stubborn to make it this far, but not so stubborn that we risked our lives for a summit.

• alt=“KLETTERN MOSS RIDGE TASMANIEN“>
• alt=“FEDERATION PEAK TASMANIEN“>
• alt=“WANDERN IM HINTERLAND TASMANIENS“>

I am very grateful that I was given this experience. Our first real taste of Tasmania's World Heritage wilderness will remain with us forever and the lessons will not be forgotten.

Although the failed summit attempt blunted the ego somewhat, I am very proud of our achievement and even prouder of Haylea, who really pushed herself to the limit on this summit. There are not many people out there who can do what she did and I am honored to call her my life partner. Let's just say she deserves a week of van life luxury, hot cappuccinos and steaming fruit bread included!

Read more: Federation Peak: Attempting the Winter Summit
alt="FEDERATION TOP TRY">
alt=“FARMHOUSE CREEK PARKING”>We were overjoyed to have a hot shower installed in our van!

Tahune Adventures

This week 11 of our van living adventure in Tasmania was primarily dedicated to our expedition to Federation Peak. But we also stopped off to check out Tahune Adventures, one of Tasmania's most famous adventure parks.

Unfortunately, the Tahune Forest was severely affected by the 2018-2019 bushfires. We checked out Tahune Adventures and the famous AirWalk and I've written a detailed guidebook which I'm sure will be useful to other people traveling through Tassie and looking for things to do and see.

Read more: Is it worth it? — Tahune Airwalk & Tahune Adventure
alt=“TAHUNE AIRWALK TASMANIA”>

Week 12 plans

Since we will soon be traveling in the van in Tasmania for three months, we were very happy that we extended our stay until the end of July. Winter is slowly creeping in, but there is so much more we want to see and do on this beautiful island. And I think after this week's experience we are psychologically immune to the cold!

Unfortunately, the conditions in the southwest took their toll on my camera. I had to send it in for repairs this week, but hopefully I'll get it back soon.

After returning from Southwest National Park we were also informed of some heartbreaking news which meant Haylea had to quickly fly back to Sydney to be with her family and close friends. I couldn't accompany her or be there to support her because we have nowhere to leave the van. It left me feeling helpless with guilt, but it's one of the realities of life on the streets.

So I'll be spending much of week 12 alone in the van until Haylea returns on June 13th. I don't have much planned, but I think we'll spend quite a bit of time in the van keeping warm and catching up on computer work. A little less exciting than attempting Australia's most difficult hiking peak in winter!

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