Hiking on the Watzmann Traverse – a Bavarian classic

Hiking on the Watzmann Traverse – a Bavarian classic

Hiking the Watzmann Traverse offers breathtaking climbing over one of Germany's classic Alpine ridges. How to complete the Bavarian thriller

One of my oldest and best friends lives in the Netherlands and over the course of our almost 20 year friendship we have managed to meet fairly regularly - usually at least once a year, either in the UK or the Netherlands. However, over the last few years, as our schedules became more crowded with work, family, and mortgages, we struggled to find the time.

This year we vowed to try harder, so we agreed to meet at a neutral location for a real vacation. So I found myself on a plane to Munich, Germany, to spend a few days hiking in the Bavarian Alps. Our destination was the Berchtesgaden National Park in southern Germany near the border with Austria.

We hadn't planned our exact route, but we knew we couldn't visit Berchtesgadener Land without completing the classic Bavarian Alpine tour of the Watzmann Traverse.

What is the Watzmann traverse?

The Watzmann massif is the superstar of the Berchtesgaden region. Its rugged mountain range towers over the valleys from anywhere within the park's boundaries.

No wonder the series' distinctive profile is used in various promotional materials, including the national park's official logo, and adorns everything from fridge magnets and snow globes to lederhosen in Bavaria's many souvenir shops.

The massif consists of a series of peaks known as the Watzmann family. According to legend, the region was once ruled by the cruel King Waze, who spread fear and terror throughout the country with his wife and children. When he trampled a farmer's family with his horse, the farmer's wife begged God to turn Waze and his family into stone. The gods promptly answered the call and the ground opened, spewing fire and the king and his family were turned to stone.

Hiking the Watzmann Traverse (or Watzmann Crossing) involves crossing the three main peaks Hocheck (2,651 m), Mittelspitze (Mittelspitze, 2,713 m) and Südspitze (Südspitze, 2,712 m), which are usually traversed from north to south on a 4.5 km ridge. The Mittelspitze is Germany's third highest peak and the highest that lies entirely within German territory.

The massif also includes the 2,307 m high Watzmannfrau (also known as Kleiner Watzmann or Kleiner Watzmann) as well as the Watzmannkinder (Watzmannkinder) – five lower peaks that dot the rocky belt between the main traverse and the Watzmannfrau.

Traversing the three main peaks over an exposed ridge is popular with hikers but is considered challenging climbing. Parts of the route are secured with various via ferrata aids.

alt=“The Watzmann massif towers over the Berchtesgadener Land “>Atlas & BootsThe Watzmann massif towers over the Berchtesgadener Land

Our route

The “Watzmann Tour” is usually completed as a hut hike in two stages, with the first day being used to climb up to the Watzmannhaus for an overnight stay. The second day is then used to complete the traverse, descend into the Wimbachgriestal and hike out to the Wimbachklammhütte and the parking lot.

Due to lockdown restrictions still in place when we booked our accommodation, we had difficulty finding cabins in the park with availability for our dates. So we booked four nights at the Watzmannhaus and decided to use it as a base to hike the various routes in the area.

The disadvantage was that we had to complete the Watzmann tour as a circular hike in one day. It would involve an intense effort covering almost 22 km of trails, a sustained descent of over 2,000 m after completing the traverse, a 7.5 km march along the Wimbachgriestal, followed by a final strenuous 1,300 m climb back to the Watzmannhaus.

We set off early in the morning and followed the snake path to the first peak, the Hocheck at 2,651 m. The morning was overcast and cool, but dry - ideal hiking weather. The climb to Hocheck is steep, but relatively comfortable compared to the Hocheck, Mittelspitze and Südspitze ridges behind it.

A crucifix marks the summit of Hocheck, as with all three peaks. We took a short break there before continuing on. Immediately behind the summit, the ridge begins to drop away and the first of the climbing aids comes into play. There are several steel cables and iron steps to make the descent easier.

The ridge soon begins to climb again towards the Mittelspitze, probably the most exposed part of the crossing. We climbed calmly over the spine of the massif, switching from one side of the ridge to the other, making full use of the aids and clipping ourselves onto the steel cables with our climbing harnesses wherever possible.

It didn't feel like long until we reached the Mittelspitze - or Middle Peak - the highest point of the traverse at 2,713m. The views on both sides were excellent, but they were not to last as thick clouds and a persistent fine rain quickly rolled in and engulfed the mountain.

alt=“A hiker descends from the middle peak on the way to the southern tip”>Atlas & BootsA hiker descends from the middle peak on the way to the southern tip

This made the final section of the traverse extremely slow, as the bare rock became worryingly slippery, weakening our confidence with each tentative step. We descended again, this time much steeper and into a deep depression between the two peaks. Fortunately, there were enough climbing aids available, especially extended rope sections, which provided much-needed safety.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we started climbing again. As we walked up the ridge we felt much safer. When descending, you always have the feeling that your feet could slip out from under you. By now we couldn't see more than a few meters in front of us. The view had completely disappeared, so we stayed close to each other, making sure we maintained line of sight with each other.

After a final steep climb, we reached the third summit of the day, the Südspitze - or South Peak - at 2,712 m. Exhausted and happy in equal measure, we took a well-deserved breather, signed the summit book and looked back at what we had achieved. Unfortunately, the previous two peaks – along with the rest of Bavaria – were completely obscured by clouds.

It had taken five hours to complete the traverse and we considered going back the way we came. However, the rock was already so wet at that point that we decided to stick to the plan and continue with the loop.

• alt=“Blick vom Watzmannhaus auf Hocheck „>
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• alt=“Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>
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• alt=“Auf dem Gipfel beim Wandern der Watzmann-Traverse“>
• alt=“Das Gipfelbuch auf der Südspitze beim Wandern auf der Watzmann-Traverse“>
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Some scenes from the day on the trail

We felt like the hardest part of the day was behind us, but the descent down to Wimbachgries was extremely slow and felt pointless at times. Luckily the weather improved dramatically and by the time we reached the valley floor we were drenched in sunshine and sweat.

We always knew we would have a long day, so we just took a quick break for a sugary cold drink at the Wimbachgrieshütte before marching along the valley to near the Wimbachklamm, where we crossed the Wimbach and began a winding climb back to the Watzmannhaus.

We finally arrived back at the Watzmannhaus seconds before a massive hailstorm, with just enough time to change, order a warm meal and, above all, enjoy a cold beer. The thunderstorm didn't last long and we were outside in what was probably the best beer garden in Germany and enjoyed a sensational sunset in the mountains.

We were completely exhausted, but completely satisfied with an exciting day on the Watzmann Traverse.

Our timetable

• 06.00 Uhr: Aufstehen und Frühstücken im Watzmannhaus
• 07.30 Uhr: Abfahrt Watzmannhaus (1.930m)
• 09.00 Uhr: Gipfel Hocheck (2.651m)
• 10.00 Uhr: Gipfel Mittelspitze (2.713m)
• 12.00 Uhr: Gipfel Südspitze (2.712m)
• 12.30 Uhr: Abstieg Watzmann ins Wimbachgries
• 15.00 Uhr: Pause bei der Wimbachgrieshütte (1.327m)
• 15.30 Uhr: Wanderung entlang des Wimbachgries
• 17.00: Beginn des Aufstiegs bei der Wimbachklamm (637m)
• 20:00: Ankunft am Watzmannhaus (1.930m)

Equipment list

• Geschirr
• Klettersteigset (oder gleichwertige Schlingen/Seile mit Schnappkarabiner)
• Helm
• Wasserdichte Jacke und Hose
• Wasserflasche
• Wasserreinigung
• Wanderstiefel
• Dicke Socken
• Rucksack (35l+)
• Wanderhose oder Shorts
• Basisschicht oder T-Shirt
• Warme Jacke oder Pullover
• Schlafsack
• Bettlaken oder Decke
• Kissen- oder Kissenbezug
• Sandalen oder Flip Flops für die Hütte
• Snacks

Hiking on the Watzmann Traverse: The most important thing

What: Hiking the Watzmann Traverse in the Bavarian Alps of Berchtesgaden National Park in Germany.

Where: We stayed overnight in the Watzmannhaus, a DAV (German Alpine Club) hut. The excellent DAV huts are fully equipped bunkhouses that serve three meals a day, snacks and plenty of beer.

When staying at the hut, hikers must bring their own sleeping bags, a bed sheet and a pillowcase or pillow. There is a drying room for wet gear, indoor and outdoor seating areas, and several washrooms (but no showers).

• alt=“Das Watzmannhaus beim Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>
• alt=“Im Inneren des Watzmannhauses beim Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>
• alt=“Der Blick vom Watzmannhaus beim Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>
• alt=“Ein Essen auf einer der Hütten beim Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>
• alt=“Der Blick vom Watzmannhaus beim Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>
• alt=“Der Biergarten am Watzmannhaus beim Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>
• alt=“Der Biergarten am Watzmannhaus beim Wandern auf der Watzmanntraverse“>

Life in the Watzmannhaus

Prices vary depending on the time of year and whether you are staying in a double, small or large dormitory. Meals generally cost around €7 for breakfast and €10 for lunch and dinner.

As a member of the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), I am registered for the Reciprocal Rights Card, which gives members discounted rates at Alpine Club huts across Europe, including France, Switzerland, Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, Austria and Spain.

This reduced the price for a bed in a shared room from €29 to €13 per night. Check out the current rates here.

Please note that the Watzmannhaus only provides two liters of drinking water per day. They only refill water bottles at certain times in the morning and evening. If you plan on drinking more (and you really should), I recommend taking water purification tablets or a similar system to treat the non-drinking water in the toilets. There are limited freshwater sources on the mountain.

When: The best time for hiking on the Watzmann traverse and for general hiking in Berchtesgadener Land is from June to September. It is possible to hike the lower trails outside of this time, but we do not recommend attempting the traverse.

Outside these times, the crossing becomes a winter climb and, in addition to the fixed via ferrata aids, requires winter climbing skills such as using crampons, ice axes and additional rope knowledge.

How: The closest transport hubs to Berchtesgaden National Park are Salzburg in Austria (25 km) and Munich (185 km). I flew to Munich, where my friend, who was traveling from the Netherlands, picked me up. We drove to Schönau am Königssee, the small community that lies at the end of the Königssee in the park.

We parked in the long-term parking lot for €5 per day and hiked via the Kührointhütte to the Watzmannhaus (5 hours in total including a break).

It is also possible to travel by bus or train from Salzburg and Munich to Berchtesgaden. Further information can be found on the national park website.

I flew to Munich with Lufthansa. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

Phone reception is fairly good throughout the park, but becomes less reliable the higher you climb. I travel with a Keepgo Lifetime World LTE SIM card, which connects to local 4G networks in over 100 countries. Use this referral link to get 10% off any Keepgo product.

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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