Diving with Steve's Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef

Diving with Steve's Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef

A first-hand account of diving with Steve's Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef, including information about when to go, how to get there and what to expect

It began in a whisper, as if he was revealing a state secret or the coordinates of Atlantis. His shoulders rested gently in the buttery leather of his seat, his posture relaxed and casual, as if this were a drink on any other evening of our small-ship expedition across the Great Barrier Reef. However, his tone betrayed something else: a low and certain intensity that alerted us that this dive would be like no other.

He would need special permission from the captain, said Colin, our diving instructor on the expedition. We would have to leave early, take the dinghy and be back before breakfast. Nothing was guaranteed, but he would talk to the captain and we would wait.

Colin drew us a diagram of Steve's bommie. Somewhere between Ribbon Reefs No. 2 and No. 3 stood this exceptionally isolated peak, ranging from a depth of 35m to about five meters and usually explored in an upward spiral.

alt=“Diving Steve’s Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef Coral Moorish Idol 1″>Atlas & BootsSteve’s Bommie is one of the best dive sites in the Great Barrier Reef

There were no other divers on our expedition, so Peter and I would be the only passengers on the dive. The legend of Steve's Bommie was so great that members of the crew clamored to get involved. Counting me, Peter, Colin and his divemaster colleague Majek, there was only room for one more crew member. Our resident marine biologist Riccardo gallantly stepped aside for Jamie out of hospitality.

And so we woke up at dawn the next morning, tired but pleased that the skipper had approved the excursion. We packed into the dinghy, fins and gear ready and prepared by the ever efficient Colin.

Daylight bloomed as we sailed away from the ship for about 15 minutes, stopping when we arrived somewhere at S15° 30′ 06.4″ E145° 47′ 16.7″ (but who knows, that's the magic of Steve's bommie, maybe it moved ).

old=““>Atlas & BootsSteve’s Bommie is one of the best dive sites in the Great Barrier Reef

We donned our masks and fins and although I was brimming with the familiar pre-dive adrenaline, it was in a more comfortable way. I've already said that diving is difficult because once you do two it's usually time to go home, after which you don't dive for another six months and quickly fall out of practice. This time, however, I had spent six days on the ship, diving with Colin almost every day, and was therefore familiar with my equipment, perfectly weighted, and generally calm and confident.

We rolled into the water and dismounted without further ado. We immediately noticed the incredible view. At Steve’s Bommie it regularly reaches 30m, a welcome fact as I had to stop at 18m while the others, all certified above my Open Water Diver level, descended a further six meters to spot a turtle.

alt="Diving Steve's Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef Turtle">Atlas & BootsA shy turtle at Steve’s Bommie

I was at a loss because Steve's bommie was like nothing I had ever seen. Diving in the Galápagos was more surreal and, on reflection, makes Steve's Bommie the best dive I've ever done, but the colors and diversity on the Great Barrier Reef were simply unrivaled.

Steve's bommie is bursting with life. We watched it dance and play and cry and sway across the walls of the battlements. Bright orange clownfish curling up in the tentacles of a thick-fingered anemone alongside schools of Disney purple yellow snapper and anthias.

We circled the Bommie, peering into nooks and crannies, catching the eye of a scorpionfish and rearing up against the nightmarish silhouette of a lionfish. The diversity of species cannot be missed, including flamefish, eels, crabs, nudibranchs and mantis shrimps. There may even be an octopus or wobblegong shark camouflaged in the crevices.

I noted wryly that “Steve’s Bommie” was a typically Australian understatement. A bolder nation would certainly have called it Atlantis.

The eponymous Steve is said to have been a legendary diver (also alternately cook, customer, freediver and guide) who died on site. The truth remains unknown, but I was told that there is a plaque 25m high on the Bommie.

alt="Diving Steve's Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef plaque">Jayne Jenkins; Fair useA plaque dedicated to the eponymous Steve

We spent just over half an hour circling Steve’s Bommie and were completely enchanted by what is arguably one of the best dive sites in the Great Barrier Reef.

After the usual safety stop, we all emerged together, squealing with joy. Steve’s Bommie is everything we learned to dive for. It is an alien world in breathtaking clarity, a vibrant center of life, a chance to see extraordinary megafauna and learn once again why it is so important to protect our planet.

That's why we don't discourage people from visiting ecosystems like the Great Barrier Reef. It's fair to say that most people are apathetic towards the environment, but it's experiences like this, done sustainably, that encourage real investment in wildlife and nature; who show you what we have to lose; with which you commit to reducing plastic consumption.

It is experiences like these that demonstrate the extraordinary nature of life on Earth and remind us of its true value.

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Atlas & Boots

Diving with Steve’s Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef: the essentials

What: Diving Steve’s Bommie in the Great Barrier Reef, Australia.

Where: We stayed on Coral Expeditions II in a cabin on the upper deck. Our room was extremely comfortable and surprisingly spacious with plenty of storage space and a stunning sea view.

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Atlas & Boots

Aperitifs were served on the upper deck and meals were taken in the lower deck dining room, where Chef Mark prepared feasts for breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as morning and afternoon tea.

The maximum capacity of 44 guests (ours had 22) makes for an excellent camaraderie and atmosphere, enhanced by a delightful crew. Overall, it was a wonderful way to explore the Great Barrier Reef.

When: The best time to visit the Great Barrier Reef is from July to October due to good visibility and little rain and wind.

How: We joined Coral Expeditions for a 7 night expedition from Cairns to Hinchinbrook Island, Lizard Island and back to Cairns.

Prices start at A$3,680 (US$2,720) per person and include all meals, tea and coffee, snorkeling equipment and wetsuits, snorkeling excursions, guided glass-bottom boat rides, presentations by marine biologists, access to islands, marine parks and national parks, an introduction to diving skills for new divers, and drop-off at a Cairns hotel or Cairns Airport.

Prices do not include dives ($80 AUD / $60 USD per person, per dive) or stinger suits. Please note that there is no internet access on board.

Expeditions depart and return to the Cairns Cruise Liner Terminal. You will receive boarding instructions before departure, which are worth reading carefully as taxi drivers do not always know exactly where to go.

Cairns itself can be reached by car from Hertz Australia, by bus from Greyhound Australia or by plane to Cairns Airport. Book domestic or international flights with Skyscanner at the best prices.

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Lonely Planet Australia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Disclosure: We explored the Great Barrier Reef with support from Coral Expeditions. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

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