Swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti

Swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti

Swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti promised to be the highlight of our trip - but would it live up to the hype?

I'm a pessimist and Peter is the opposite, so while he was excited about the prospect of swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti, I sat sadly in a corner wondering if a) we would even see a whale shark and b) if I would be able to keep up with it.

I'm not a water baby, as I may have mentioned in the past. I grew up in London and sensible people don't swim in the Thames. That’s not to say I avoid sea adventures altogether; Scuba diving in the Galapagos and seeing humpback whales in Tonga are two of the best things I've ever done - but would swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti live up to the hype?

alt="Djibouti is one of the best places in the world to see whale sharks">Atlas & BootsDjibouti is one of the best places in the world to see whale sharks

We met Ken from Rushing Waters Adventures and two other guests at 8am for the two hour drive to our starting point in Ghoubbet Bay. There we checked our snorkels and fins and got ready to embark.

On board our boat, Peter chatted happily with the other guests while I sat in silence, mentally preparing myself for the swim. Go step by step, breathe slowly, use your fins, I told myself.

After about 20 minutes we pulled up next to three other boats. I was pleased to see that they were small boats and not the pushing monsters we saw in Mirissa. One held a dozen people and the others had smaller groups like ours.

The air pulsed with anticipation as we combed the water, attaching masks and fins. Our spotter pointed north and we jumped into the water and swam wildly in the recommended direction. To hell with the pace. I had to keep up with the crowd.

I dipped my head in and out of the water to make sure I was swimming in the right direction. As I feared, I fell behind. I kicked wildly, finally caught up with it and dunked my head back into the water. There, a few meters below me, was a whale shark, the largest known fish in the world.

I screamed in shock. The mass and shape was like nothing I had seen before. The whale shark's spots caught the light so that they glowed. He glided calmly in the water, paying no attention to those swimming above him.

At some points people swam into me and blithely pushed past me, which wasn't pleasant, but I was willing to forgive given the fervor of the moment. What I couldn't forgive was the man from another group who decided he wanted to touch the shark, protocol be damned.

alt=“Bad behavior of another group while swimming in Djibouti”>Atlas & BootsBad behavior from another swimmer

It dove and struck at the whale shark's fin before shooting back up, hitting other swimmers. This type of behavior is annoying as it disturbs the whale sharks, spoils the view for other swimmers and sets a terrible example. I wish I could have spoken to him afterwards and asked him to stop being an idiot abroad.

Back on the boat, Ken suggested we take a lunch break and continue our search after the others had left. We went to a secluded beach and spent a while snorkeling on a reef.

We enjoyed a lovely picnic on the beach while Ken, a Wisconsin native long settled in Djibouti, shared amusing anecdotes about his time in the country. (Ask him about the Djibouti Kayaking Society.)

alt=“A picnic lunch on a secluded beach”>Atlas & BootsA picnic lunch on a secluded beach

After plenty of time to rest and regroup, we went looking again. It wasn't long before we found another shark, this time with just a different boat. Our spotter pointed a few meters ahead and Peter and I jumped straight in.

Unfortunately, the whale shark headed in the opposite direction and the two boats followed it, dropping off the passengers much closer to it. Peter and I looked at each other. We made the mistake of jumping in too early.

At that moment, movement caught the corner of my eye. The whale shark headed straight for us. I dove underwater, safe in the knowledge that these creatures are gentle. The shark swam right towards me as I floated in the water, as if I was floating in time.

His skin glistened in the light and I held my breath as he swam so close that I thought his tail would hit me when he turned around. His enormous mass slid past quickly and I exhaled, long, soft and slow.

alt=“A whale shark swims past Kia”>Atlas & BootsA whale shark gets a little too close to Kia

It was one of my greatest wildlife experiences, right up there with the Galápagos and Tonga. These magnificent creatures are enchanting in both their beauty and behavior and it was an absolute privilege to share their space.

It is clear that as tourism in Djibouti increases, authorities will need to adopt and enforce stricter regulations on the number and behavior of swimmers. Meanwhile, tourists are required to book with reputable companies such as Rushing Waters Adventures, which regulate visitor behavior.

Djibouti is one of the best countries for Lonely Planet to visit in 2018, and with the imminent opening of a railway line from Addis Ababa, access to the country will only increase. So if you want to swim with whale sharks in Djibouti, don't wait.

• alt=“Schwimmen mit Walhaien in Dschibuti-Ansicht von oben“>
• alt=“Schwimmen mit Walhaien in der Dschibuti-Antenne“>
• alt=“Dschibuti ist einer der besten Orte der Welt, um Walhaie zu sehen“>
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• alt=“Schwimmen mit Walhaien in Dschibuti, die Fisch essen“>
• alt=“Schwimmen mit Walhaien in Dschibuti inmitten von Fischen“>
• alt=“Schwimmen mit Walhaien in Dschibuti ganz in der Nähe“>
• alt=“Peter Schwimmen mit Walhaien in Dschibuti“>
• alt=“einsamer Strand“>
• alt=“Ein Picknick-Mittagessen an einem abgelegenen Strand“>
• alt=“fertig für den Tag“>
• alt=“Abenteuer in rauschenden Gewässern“>

Atlas & Boots

Swimming with whale sharks: tips

• Vermeiden Sie einen Besuch am Wochenende, wenn die Gewässer am vollsten sind
• Tauchen Sie nicht zu den Walhaien hinunter und berühren Sie sie auf keinen Fall
• Versuche, zwischen dir und den Walhaien vier Meter Abstand zu halten
• Trinken Sie viel Wasser und tragen Sie Sonnencreme regelmäßig auf
• Achten Sie auf andere Boote im Wasser, da die verschiedenen Skipper Schwimmer nicht immer sehen können
• Buchen Sie Ihre Reise bei einem renommierten Unternehmen
• Denken Sie schließlich daran, dass Erlebnisse mit Wildtieren niemals garantiert sind

Swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti: the essentials

What: Swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti.

Where: We stayed at the Sheraton Djibouti overlooking the Red Sea. The rooms are clean and comfortable with excellent WiFi and lovely sea views on one side of the hotel. The outdoor pool is located on a raised platform above the sea and gives the unmistakable feeling of being on board a boat.

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Atlas & Boots

Breakfast is worth a mention given the dedicated pancake station and wide selection of tasty dishes. There are several restaurants on site as well as an excellent Indian restaurant, Sings, around the corner.

The hotel offers a range of amenities including a free airport shuttle, a convenience store, a business center and a fully equipped fitness center. Of course, we preferred the cozy lounge area, perfect for enjoying an evening whiskey sour and watching the sunset over a gently lapping sea. Overall, it was a welcome touch of comfort to end our trip with.

When: Whale shark season in Djibouti runs from November to January, when the weather is cooler. The shoulder season of October and February to April is also a good time to visit, but you won't see any whale sharks. May-September is extremely hot.

How: We went swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti with Rushing Waters Adventures, which is currently ranked number one in Djibouti on TripAdvisor. Rushing Waters is run by Wisconsin native Ken, who has lived in Djibouti for over seven years (and can even speak Somali!).

Our day tour was well organized and included pickup and drop-off, snorkeling gear, a picnic lunch, and non-alcoholic drinks. Overall, it was an excellent way to see these majestic creatures. Book through Ken at Rushing Waters Adventures: www.kayakdjibouti.com, kgradall@kayakdjibouti.com, +253 77 79 49 58.

Djibouti is a small country, which means getting around is pretty easy. Taxis from the airport charge a fixed fare to hotels in the city (around 2,000 DJF / 11 USD). Check the board outside the airport to make sure you are not being overcharged. Some hotels, including the Sheraton, offer free shuttles, so check beforehand.

Book international flights through skyscanner.net at the best prices.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia & Djibouti is a useful travel guide to Djibouti, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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