In search of the source: Visit the Blue Nile Falls

In search of the source: Visit the Blue Nile Falls

Ethiopia's Blue Nile Falls may not rival its larger neighbors, but following in the footsteps of famous explorers is still a beautiful day out

The Blue Nile Falls – or Tis Abay in Amharic, meaning “big smoke” – is a somewhat poor relation to the famous waterfalls found in Listicles. It's not Angel, Iguazu, Victoria or Niagara, but the 42m-high Blue Nile Falls still provide a dramatic spectacle.

Former glory

Originally, the Blue Nile meandered away from Lake Tana before crashing violently over the side of a 400 m (1,312 ft) wide gorge into a gorge below. Unfortunately, due to hydroelectric projects upstream, the waterfall is now a shadow of its former self.

alt="Nowadays, what remains is either a two-pronged or sometimes a three-pronged waterfall">Atlas & BootsNowadays, either a two-pronged or sometimes a three-pronged waterfall remains

Today, either a two- or sometimes three-pronged waterfall cascades into the pools below. The impact throws up fog and rainbows before continuing downstream toward Khartoum, Sudan, where the Blue Nile eventually flows into the White Nile.

A worthy daily tip

We took a day trip from Bahir Dar, 30 km away, and walked along the footpath that leads to the first bridge to span the Blue Nile: the 17th-century Portuguese bridge. From here the path climbs through small villages and hamlets to a series of viewpoints.

We visited on a Saturday – market day – which meant we walked against a tide of locals on our way to trade goods, food and livestock. This wasn't necessarily a bad thing, but it did make navigating the rocky footpath a little more difficult!

We continued across a suspension bridge spanning the narrow Alata River and descended to the base of the falls. The water was in medium current but still a sight to behold. We stood in the middle of the rushing rapids and enjoyed the cooling mist.

Shortly after, we completed the loop, winding back up and around the falls before crossing the river in a small motorboat to return to the entrance and our waiting car. The entire hike was about 5km and took about 1.5 to 2 hours with several stops for photography and observation.

Legend has it...

The legend of Blue Nile Falls is probably the most important reason to visit. For history buffs (like me), there's great appeal in following in the footsteps of master embellisher James Bruce. Bruce claimed to have discovered the falls and called the Blue Nile the only source of the mighty Nile.

In 1768, Bruce arrived in Alexandria, Egypt to discover the source of the Nile, which he believed originated in Ethiopia. Two years and a bout of malaria later, Bruce stumbled upon the falls in 1770, where he promptly claimed to have discovered the source of the Nile - a secret that had eluded explorers for centuries.

alt="Blue Nile Falls Ethiopia from above">Atlas & BootsThe source of the Nile eluded researchers for centuries

However, as Bruce well knew, he had been beaten to his “discovery” some 150 years earlier by a Spanish Jesuit, Pedro Páez. In addition, the Blue Nile Falls only flow into the Blue Nile, one of the two major tributaries of the Nile. The other tributary, the White Nile, is considered the headwaters and main source of the Nile proper.

It took Bruce three years to return to Cairo before finally arriving back in Britain in 1774. A few years later, in 1790, Bruce published his multi-volume account Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile. At the time, it was ridiculed for its sensationalized claims and stories. It was surprising, therefore, that later explorers confirmed that much of what Bruce transcribed contained significant geographical accuracy.

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Atlas & Boots

Bruce described the falls of the Blue Nile as "a magnificent sight which age, together with the greatest length of human life, would not erase or erase from my memory."

Today this may seem exaggerated, but what the waterfall lacks in flow it makes up for in legend. A hike to its base is worth the effort, if only to follow in the footsteps of those who sought the source.

Blue Nile Falls: the essentials

What:Visit to Blue Nile Falls, 30 km from Bahir Dar in Ethiopia.

Where:We stayed at the Rahnile Hotel, a clean and comfortable business hotel in the city center. Our room was spotless and had an excellent shower (with strong water pressure and water that stayed hot!).

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Atlas & Boots

The hotel isn't located on Lake Tana like some of the more expensive outfits in the city, but it offers good value for money. The WiFi is generally reliable and the local breakfast is super tasty. The staff are helpful and always ready with a smile to help us organize our excursions. All in all, Rahnile is a solid choice for exploring Bahir Dar and beyond.

When:The best time to visit the Blue Nile waterfalls in Ethiopia is August and September, when the current is strongest.

From around January to March the current is weak and offers little spectacle. Unfortunately, this time falls during the best time to visit Ethiopia: October to March, when temperatures are most pleasant, rainfall is lowest in most parts of the country, and clear blue skies are almost guaranteed.

How:We booked our Blue Nile Falls tour with the (rather overzealous) tour operator at the Rahnile Hotel. Don't worry about asking about him; he will find you. Do not accept the first price offered. We bargained for 2,300 ETB ($83) for two people for two half-day tours: the first to Blue Nile Falls, the second to the island monasteries. Please note that additional costs apply at both locations. At Blue Nile Falls these were the following in ETB:

• 400 pro Gruppe für einen Führer
• 50 pro Person Eintrittsgebühr für die Blue Nile Falls
• 20 pro Person für eine kurze Bootsfahrt
• 50 Gebühr für eine Videokamera

We reached Bahir Dar by public coaster bus from Gondar: 100 ETB (4 USD) per person. Bus stop touts are very aggressive, so be prepared to fight them off. Avoid sitting at the back of the bus. We had five people in four seats (six people if you count the baby!). Note that we got on the bus at 9am and left at 10:15am while waiting for the bus to be full.

You can arrange a private transfer through your hotel, but note that there is no official taxi service, so you'll be at the mercy of local traders.

Domestic flights are the fastest way to travel in Ethiopia (check the latest routes here). It is much cheaper to book flights at an Ethiopian Airlines office in the country. Be sure to mention if you flew internationally with them as you will be eligible for a significant discount.

Addis Ababa is the country's main international airport. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled. If you prefer to travel in a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their small group Ethiopia tours.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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