Phillip Island Penguin Parade: The day we saw 613 penguins

Phillip Island Penguin Parade: The day we saw 613 penguins

We visit the Phillip Island Penguin Parade in Australia to see if it's worth the hype

There is a noticeable tension in the air. It reminds me of the atmosphere at a standing room only gig just before the doors open: everyone stays quiet, but then desperately rushes forward to get a good seat, pushing people like me - small, small, small - to the edge of the room.

Needless to say, I hate standing up performances.

Luckily, the spectators at the Phillip Island Penguin Parade are not that aggressive. Yes, there is an eagerness to get in, but there is no pushing or shoving. Peter and I also have “Penguins Plus” tickets which allow us a quieter seating area.

We stream in with the crowd and then retreat to a barrier where we brandish our tickets like beads. Internally we are very happy with our decision. The Plus seating area is far quieter and quieter.

alt="The Plus seating area offers the best view of the penguins">Penguins.orgThe Plus seating area offers the best view

The Phillip Island Penguin Parade, 90 minutes from Melbourne in Australia, is run by Phillip Island Nature Parks, a non-profit organization that self-funds its research, environmental, education and conservation activities on Phillip Island and beyond through five attractions: the Penguin Parade, Koala Conservation Centre, Antarctic Journey, Churchill Island Heritage Farm and Wild Oceans EcoBoat Tours.

The penguin parade in particular promises a spectacle like no other. Tonight, we are told, we will see hundreds of little penguins emerging from the sea after a day of hunting fish. We'll watch them take a break on the beach and then waddle to their little rooms. Hundreds, they say.

I'm skeptical about what my default setting is. My encounter with penguins in the Galápagos lasted just a few seconds and Perth's Penguin Island was beautiful, but I didn't see any in the wild. The promise of hundreds seems absolutely fantastic.

We take our seats on a tiered platform and struggle to find the best place to sit. We opt for the second row, deciding it offers the best balance between being close to the penguins and looking out over the beach. (Note: Actually, the front row seats are the best.)

alt=“The best seats in the Penguins Plus seating area are marked in red”>The best seats in Penguins Plus are marked in red

The time of the penguin parade on Phillip Island changes depending on the month and season. Today it starts around 8:15 p.m., so we have an hour's wait. During this time we are allowed to use our phones and take photos of the beach.

Then we have to put them away. Penguins are very sensitive to light, so allowing a hundred screens in their faces would be completely irresponsible. Therefore, phones and cameras are strictly prohibited during the parade itself.

We wait and we wait. And we wait. We take silly photos of each other and then wait a bit. We curate our photos and then wait a bit. We complain about Brexit and then wait a little longer.

It's 8:20 p.m. and there are no signs of penguins. I'm preparing myself for disappointment. I'd be happy to see just a dozen, I think.

And then we see some movement on the beach. It's subtle at first: a pair of inky figures silhouetted against the piercing twilight sky. They are joined by another and then another. Suddenly the Phillip Island Penguin Parade begins in earnest. The little penguins waddle up the beach and stop at the clearing a few meters away.

Some cower while others tremble and tremble. Some stumble around and fall head over heels after meeting friends. This spot on the beach is their first opportunity to rest, safe from aerial predators, and so they gather in droves: dozens, dozens, then dozens upon dozens.

They are extremely charming as they move gracefully and stumble and fall and play. Some waddle up a path to the right of the platform, while others walk below us to their warm and cozy homes.

Finally! Penguins in the wild! And not just one penguin like on the Galápagos or six on Penguin Island, but dozens. Hundreds! I am completely thrilled.

alt="Phillip Island Penguin Parade">Penguins.orgMarch of the Penguins

They stream and stream and keep coming and I can't quite believe we can do this. I can't believe this spectacle - these precious Disney moments - actually exists.

The cell phone embargo makes the experience even more special - as if moments like these shouldn't be captured.

We watch the penguin parade for an hour as the chill in the air increases sharply. Peter and I are dressed for the Australian summer and ill-prepared for the refreshing sea breeze.

We'll endure the cold for a while - when will we see something like this again? – but as we look down the beach we see hundreds more coming like an adorable little army.

alt=“A penguin pauses”>Penguins.orgA little penguin pauses on the beach

Finally we agree that we have seen enough. We leave the platform and enter the general access area, where penguins wander next to the walkways.

Leaving the complex takes almost an hour as we stop to delight in watching a couple cuddling here and a loner crouching there. At some point we say goodbye. The next day we ask how many penguins were in the parade that night and get the answer 613.

I've said before that long-distance travel makes some wonderful experiences pale in comparison to previous incarnations: Erta Ale is amazing, but not as much as Yasur; Franz Josef is cool, but less cool than Perito.

You might think that the Phillip Island penguin parade, with its constructed walkways, ticket lines and queuing system, felt less organic than, say, diving with sharks or swimming with whales, but I can't help it. The parade was absolutely enchanting and one of the best things I have ever seen.

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Penguins.org

Penguin Parade Tips

• Buchen Sie Penguins Plus-Tickets. Sie sind den Aufpreis wert.
• Kommen Sie mindestens eine Stunde vor Beginn der Parade an, um sich die besten Plätze zu sichern.
• Setzen Sie sich nach Möglichkeit in die erste Reihe, die der Lichtung am Strand am nächsten liegt. Fragen Sie im Zweifelsfall einen Mitarbeiter nach dem besten Sitzplatz.
• Packen Sie ein paar Schichten ein, da der Abend kühl werden kann.
• Legen Sie Ihr Telefon und Ihre Kamera weg und brechen Sie nicht die Regeln.

Phillip Island Penguin Parade: the essentials

What: The Phillip Island Penguin Parade from Melbourne, Australia.

Where: We stayed at Somerset on Elizabeth in the heart of Melbourne's Central Business District (CBD). Our serviced apartment was extremely spacious and included a kitchen, living room and large bedroom.

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Atlas & Boots

The staff at Somerset on Elizabeth are obviously very well trained and were wonderful with our car after a fairly stressful drive through the city. (Valet parking is included in the $45 AUD/day parking fee, so simply pull up outside and drop off your keys at reception.)

The CBD offers numerous restaurants, shops and activities. Melbourne's Chinatown is just a stone's throw away and offers a variety of delicious options. The drive from Melbourne to Phillip Island takes approximately 90 minutes and can be completed in a day trip.

When: The penguin parade takes place all year round and penguins can be seen in all weathers. The best time to visit Phillip Island is the summer months from December to February, when the weather is best and rainfall is low. Visit in February to avoid school holidays.

How: The Phillip Island Penguin Parade offers multiple ticket options. We recommend the Penguin Plus level – worth the extra cost. Book early, especially if you are visiting during school holidays.

The penguins emerge at sunset and we recommend arriving at least an hour beforehand (see opening hours for schedules). When booking Penguins Plus tickets, aim for the seats closest to the beach (specifically the clearing to the right of the seats when facing the beach).

There is no public transport from Melbourne to Phillip Island, so your best bet is to book a transfer (Phillip Island Taxis, +61 (03) 5952 2200) or rent a car with Hertz Australia. Allow 90 minutes to drive from Melbourne to Phillip Island and another 20 minutes to reach the Penguin Parade.

There are several other attractions worth seeing on Phillip Island, including the Koala Conservation Center and The Nobbies headland. So it's worth getting there a few hours before the penguin parade to explore the island.

Book domestic or international flights with Skyscanner at the best prices.

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Australia is a huge country. If you'd rather hand off the planning, we recommend G Adventures and their small group Australia tours.

Lonely Planet Australia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Main image: Penguins.org

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