Stone Rangers: Riding in Cappadocia

Stone Rangers: Riding in Cappadocia

In his 2009 memoir, journalist Sathnam Sanghera recalls a date with a Sikh girl, which details the intricacies of the film Police Academy.

Sathnam asks how she remembers so much about the film, and she replies, "Asian girl. Not much came out in the '80s."

I laughed because her joke so perfectly captured my early years as an Asian girl in the UK. Despite being born and raised in London, I lived (and chafed) under an extensive set of strict rules that governed what I wore, what I ate, where I went, who I saw and when I would be home after a day at school/college/university.

I'm telling you this now to try to convey the little moments of wonder that often hit me when I travel - because here I am, in cowboy gaiters, on a horse, riding through the dusty landscape of Cappadocia, and the best way to describe the feeling is freedom.

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Maybe that's why I love horses so much - not because they are beautiful or gentle or calming, but because they are liberating.

I consider the irony as Safran, my horse for the half-day ride, puts on the reins. She is strong and healthy and well cared for, which is a good sign that we have chosen the right company.

Our Kirkit Voyage guide, Zcan, is barely out of his teens, but he has been around horses his entire life and displays the same patience and composure I've seen in other experienced riders.

Today it's just him, me and Peter. Tourism has collapsed in Turkey and customs are hard to come by throughout the country.

I mount Saffron, secretly pleased with my grace. I'm not telling Zcan that it only comes after months of teaching in 2011.

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We set off for our afternoon ride through the gardens and vineyards above the village of Avanos. After a balloon ride in Cappadocia and several days of hiking in Cappadocia, we are excited to see another part of the region. We wind along dirt paths over rolling hills that aren't quite lush but offer the first bit of greenery we've seen in days.

Locals stop in their gardens to watch and wave or exchange greetings with Zcan as we trot past. Saffron is cheeky and always dives deep to nibble on grass and bush. When her sudden tug on the reins nearly sends me falling headfirst, I become sterner and begin to preemptively distance her from temptation.

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She is an old pro, masterfully maneuvering up and down steep inclines. On a few occasions, I lean back to help her balance as she navigates a particularly tricky section. She hardly needs my help and proves to be robust and nimble.

We reach the Red River (Kızılırmak River) and take a break to enjoy the view over the valley. We soon discover a sight that surprises us both: a snow-capped mountain looms in the distance - the last thing we would have expected in the desert-like landscape of Cappadocia.

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Zcan tells us that it is Mount Erciyes, a massive stratovolcano standing at 3,916 m (12,848 ft). It is the highest mountain in Central Anatolia and offers a range of winter sports with over 12 km of ski slopes. It seems that Turkey really has it all.

We ride along the river for an hour before heading back. At this point several dogs see our horses. They run up and start nibbling on Saffron's hind legs. I'm suddenly nervous; Just the day before, I narrowly avoided a particularly wild dog and was afraid that the horses would get spooked.

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Luckily, Zcan stays completely calm and instructs us to hold the horses' heads up so they don't spot the dogs. I grip Safran tighter on the reins and she actually trots on calmly. At some point the dogs get tired and leave us alone. I breathe a sigh of relief.

Peter, who loves dogs, tries to convince me that they were playful. I silently added another black mark to my “reasons not to get a dog” list.

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The rest of the journey is peaceful. Zcan tells us about life in the region. He shares his plans and ambitions and tells us that he will soon start studying computer science. It will be a different life, he tells us, partly in hope, partly in sadness.

Then he smiles. “Do you want to go faster?” he asks. I return his smile. ,Always.'

As we pick up speed, I enjoy the wind, the thrill and the feeling of complete freedom. Not bad for an Asian girl I guess. Not bad at all.

Riding in Cappadocia: The Essentials

What: Half a day of horseback riding in Cappadocia.

Where: We stayed at the Esbelli Evi Hotel in Ürgüp, which offers 10 spacious suites and four standard cave rooms that utilize the original caves along with traditional carved stone vaulted rooms. There are several stone terraces with expansive views of the Cappadocian countryside and the city of Ürgüp – perfect for a late afternoon drink after a day of exploring.

When: The best time for horseback riding in Cappadocia is spring (April to mid-June). Summer can be unbearably hot, while winter can cause snow! Autumn (mid-September to October) is also a good option, but the days are shorter and the chance of rain is higher.

How: We booked a half-day horseback riding tour in Cappadocia (60 EUR / 68 USD per person) with Kirkit Voyage, the pioneers of horse riding in Cappadocia. Kirkit has almost 40 horses cared for by a team of professionals who clearly love their work.

Our horses were calm and sure-footed even in difficult terrain and our guide was very experienced and attentive. We were equipped with saddlebags, half chaps and helmets and were given clear instructions at all times.

Kirkit offers a range of options, from a short sunset cruise to multi-day tours of the area. Check out their horseback riding tours and email avanos@kirkit.com for more information.

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Since we were traveling independently, we hired assistance for the duration of our trip ($35 per day), but Kirkit can arrange hotel pickup if necessary.

To get to Cappadocia you can take a high-speed train or a bus. High-speed trains connect Istanbul with Ankara and Konya via Eskişehir. From Konya you can continue to Cappadocia by bus or rental car (232 km; 4 hours). Further information and booking options can be found on the Turkish State Railways website.

An overnight bus from Istanbul is the cheapest way to get to Cappadocia for around 85 TL (30 USD), but it is a long journey of 730 km (454 miles) that takes 10-12 hours. Several companies operate night buses, including Metro Turizm and Nevşehir Seyahat.

There are domestic flights between Istanbul and Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV). We paid $50 for a one-way flight back to Istanbul. Ataturk Airport in Istanbul is international and has connections to a number of domestic destinations throughout Turkey. Book through Skyscanner to get the best prices on international and domestic flights.

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Lonely Planet Turkey is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.
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