Stone Rangers: Riding in Cappadocia

Stone Rangers: Riding in Cappadocia

In his memoirs from 2009, journalist Sathnam Sanghera remembers a date with a Sikh girl who describes the subtleties of the film Police Academy in detail.

Sathnam asks how she can remember so much about the film and she replies: "Asian girl. Not much came out in the eighties."

I laughed because her joke caught my early years as an Asian girl in Great Britain so perfectly. Although I was born and grew up in London, I lived (and rubbed), under an extensive sentence, strict rules that regulated what I was wearing, what I at, where I went, who I saw and when I would be at home after a school day/university.

I will tell you now to try to reproduce the little moments of astonishing that often meet me when I travel-because here I am, in cowboy gaiters, on a horse, riding through the dusty landscape of Kappadokia and the best way there is the feeling.

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Maybe I love horses so much - not because they are beautiful or gentle or soothing, but because they are liberating.

I think about irony, as a saffron, my horse for the half -day ride, the reins. It is strong and healthy and well maintained, which is a good sign that we have chosen the right company.

Our leader of Kirkit Voyage, Zcan, is hardly older than teenagers, but he has to do with horses all his life and shows the same patience and serenity that I have seen in other experienced riders.

Today it is only he, me and Peter. Tourism has broken up Turkey and customs is difficult to get across the country.

I climb on saffron, secretly pleased with my grace. I don't say Zcan that it will only come after months of lessons in 2011.

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We set out for our afternoon ride through the gardens and vineyards above the village of Avanos. After a balloon trip in Cappadocia and several days hiking in Cappadocia, we are excited to see another part of the region. We meander over unpaved paths over gentle hills that are not quite lush, but offer the first little green that we have seen for days.

Locals stop in their gardens to watch us and wave or to exchange greetings with ZCAN while we are trotting past. Saffran is cheeky and always dives deep to nibble grass and bush. When her sudden pulling on my reins almost brings me down, I become more strict and start to keep them preventive from temptation.

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She is an old professional who masterfully maneuvered steep gradients up and down. On some occasions I lean back to help her keep the balance while navigating through a particularly tricky section. It hardly needs my help and turns out to be robust and nimble.

We reach the red river (Kızılırmak River) and take a break to enjoy the view over the valley. Soon we discover a sight that surprises both of us: a snow -covered mountain protrudes in the distance - the last thing we would have expected in the desert -like landscape of Kappadocia.

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zcan tells us that it is the mountain of Erciyes, a huge stray volcano that stands at 3,916 m (12,848 ft). It is the highest mountain in central anatolia and offers a number of winter sports with over 12 km ski slopes. It seems that Turkey really has it all.

We ride along the river for an hour before we start the way back. At this point, several dogs see our horses. They run up and start nibbling on Safran's hind legs. I'm suddenly nervous; Just the day before I briefly avoided a particularly wild dog and are afraid that the horses are startled.

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Peter, who loves dogs, tries to convince me that they were playful. I tacitly put another black spot in my "reasons not to get a dog" list.

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The rest of the trip is peaceful. Zcan tells us about life in the region. He informs his plans and ambitions and tells us that he will soon start studying computer science. It will be a different life, he tells us, partly in hope, partly in mourning.

Then he smiles. "Do you want to drive faster?" he asks. I reply his smile. 'Always.'

While we take up speed, I enjoy the wind, the thrill and the feeling of complete freedom. Not bad for an Asian girl, I think. Not so bad.

riding in Cappadocia: the essentials

What: Half a day ride in Cappadocia.

Where: We stayed in the Esbelli Evi Hotel in ürgüp, which offers 10 spacious suites and four standard cave room that use the original caves together with traditional vaulted rooms made of hewn stone. There are several stone terraces with a wide view of the landscape of Kappadocia and the city of ürgüp - perfect for a drink in the late afternoon after an eventful day.

When: The best time to ride in Cappadocia is spring (April to mid -June). Summer can be unbearably hot while snow can fall in winter! Autumn (mid -September to October) is also a good option, but the days are shorter and the probability of rain is higher.

like: We book a half -day riding tour in Cappadocia (60 EUR / 68 USD per person) at Kirkit Voyage, the pioneers of riding in Cappadocia. Kirkit has almost 40 horses that are cared for by a team of professionals who clearly love their work.

Our horses were calm and sure -footed in difficult terrain and our guide was very experienced and attentive. We were equipped with saddlebags, half -chaps and helmets and clearly instructed at any time.

Kirkit offers a number of options, from a short trip at sunset to several days of touring through the area. Take a look at your riding tours and send an email to avanos@kirkit.com to get more information.

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Since we were on the road independently, we rented care (35 USD per day) for the duration of our trip, but Kirkit can arrange a pick -up from the hotel if necessary.

To get to Cappadocia, you can take a high -speed train or bus. High -speed trains combine Istanbul with Ankara and Konya via Eskişehir. From Konya you can continue to Kappadocia by bus or rental car (232 km; 4 hours). Further information and booking options can be found on the Turkish State Railway website.

A night bus from Istanbul is the cheapest way to get to Cappadocia for about 85 tl ($ 30), but it is a long ride of 730 km (454 miles) that lasts 10-12 hours. Several companies operate night buses, including Metro Turizm and Nevşehir Seyahat.

There are domestic flights between Istanbul and Nevşehir Kapadokya (NAV) airport. We paid $ 50 for a simple flight back to Istanbul. Ataturk Airport in Istanbul is international and has connections to a number of domestic goals Turkey everywhere. Book through Skyscanner to get the best prices for international and domestic flights.

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Lonely planet Turkey is a comprehensive travel guide for the country, ideal for those who want to explore the most important sights and take less busy roads.
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