Lake Bishoftu: How we kept cool in hectic Ethiopia

Lake Bishoftu: How we kept cool in hectic Ethiopia

On the calming shores of Lake Bishoftu, we take a break and reflect on a challenging month in Ethiopia

It was our fourth week in Ethiopia and I have to say we were tired. Ethiopia is a huge country with great attractions like Erta Ale and Dallol; It has fantastic food, a rich culture and a fascinating history – but wow, is it tiring.

Let's face it: When sharing the joys of a destination, travel writers often omit the difficulties, annoyances, and challenges that come with being on the road. In Ethiopia this was increased by a factor of five. Aside from the many logistical challenges, there were several unpleasant events that ranged from disturbing to downright disturbing.

alt=“Calming our stress at Lake Bishoftu”>Atlas & BootsCalming our stress at Lake Bishoftu

There were the kids who threw stones at us in Gondar, the men who insulted us because I ignored their "Hey, pretty lady," the teenager who pulled open our car door in Mek'ele, the boys who touched us on the bus stop, the teenagers who followed us on three different occasions in three different cities. At times it felt relentless.

Together, Peter and I have visited 70 countries on six continents. We're not exactly forest kids, so believe me when I say we needed a break.

alt=“Lazy afternoons at Lake Bishoftu”>Atlas & BootsLazy afternoons at Lake Bishoftu

Enter Lake Bishoftu, a glittering fortress of tranquility 45 km southeast of Addis Ababa. We ummed and ahhed about the route there. The last few days of our trip were supposed to be spent in the Bale Mountains, but after receiving an exorbitant price for the transfer, we simply gave up. It was another fight and we didn't have a fight anymore.

And so instead we went to Bishoftu, a town with seven crater lakes formed by a series of volcanic eruptions near the town of Bishoftu. In Ethiopia's internal borders, the lakes provide a welcome connection to water.

alt=”The perfect place for “lockdown mode””>Atlas & BootsThe perfect place for “lockdown mode”

We chose Lake Bishoftu because of its reputation as a weekend retreat for a shattered Addis Ababan in desperate need of peace. The lake offers views of gently rippling water surrounded by a steep crater rim. With a maximum depth of 87 m, it is the second deepest lake in Ethiopia and, according to local tradition, is home to a sleeping devil. From time to time, his evil power kills fish and sends them to the surface to be swept away by hungry waterfowl - or at least that's what we've heard.

If there was a devil, we saw neither horn nor fur - and we spent a lot of time watching Asham Africa from our balcony, right on the crater rim.

alt="The gardens by the lake bishoftu Asham Africa">Atlas & BootsThe Gardens of Asham Africa

With access to manicured gardens, all-day dining and pleasant views, we had no reason to leave the hotel grounds and so we entered lockdown mode, that indulgent travel phase where you take a few days to do absolutely nothing.

Sure, Mount Yerer was nearby and yes, we briefly considered horseback riding, but after a month in the country we were content to just lounge and relax.

alt="Sunset over Lake Bishoftu">Atlas & BootsSunset over Lake Bishoftu

We spent three days eating delicious wat and injera, strolling through the on-site gallery, taking long evening walks by the lake and watching the well-heeled visitors from Addis and surrounding areas.

At Asham we saw yet another face of Ethiopia: fashionable women in silk abayas and professional men in weekend wear, their designer sunglasses and wide collars giving a touch of the French Riviera.

The break at Lake Bishoftu reminded us of the importance of planning a few down days to avoid burnout on the trip. Our stay was completely invigorating and prepared us for the next and final stop of our Ethiopian epic: the great sprawling city of Addis Ababa.

Lake Bishoftu: the essentials

What: Three days at Lake Bishoftu in Ethiopia.

Where: We stayed at Asham Africa, a collection of spacious rooms with sweeping views over Lake Bishoftu. Our room with a four-poster bed and sunny balcony was the perfect antidote to four hectic weeks in Ethiopia.

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Atlas & Boots

In addition to enchanting lakefront views, the hotel features an on-site art gallery and a manicured, multi-level garden, perfect for afternoon strolls in the setting sun.

The hotel regularly hosts conferences and still manages to maintain an aura of absolute calm. In fact, during our three nights we thought the hotel was almost empty and were surprised to find when we checked out that it was actually fully booked. All in all, Asham Africa is a lovely little place to unwind from the rigors of independent travel in Ethiopia.

When: The best time to visit Bishoftu in Ethiopia is October to March, when most parts of the country experience pleasant temperatures, blue skies and low rainfall.

How: We took a private transfer from Addis Ababa to Bishoftu: 45 km, 700 ETB (25 USD). We organized the transfer through Hotel Celeste in Addis Ababa and were originally quoted ETB 1,500, so be prepared to haggle.

Addis Ababa is the country's main international airport. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia is a useful travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled. If you prefer to travel in a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their small group Ethiopia tours.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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