Costa Rica: our first National Geographic Expedition

Costa Rica: our first National Geographic Expedition

Our trip to Costa Rica was a long time coming. Here's why it was worth the wait

I have a little history when it comes to Costa Rica and it starts when I was nine years old. It was an ordinary morning, starting with an assembly at my primary school in east London.

The teacher on stage went through some standard notes and then came up with a crazy idea: the opportunity for a group of students to travel to Costa Rica as part of an environmental initiative. Those selected would live and study in Costa Rica for four weeks to learn about global environmental challenges and solutions.

I sat there on the cold hardwood floor and felt my stomach turn at the prospect of being chosen. A month! In a magical faraway land! What an incredible opportunity.

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There was just one catch: each child had to raise £2,000 for the trip. Our teacher insisted it could be done; that we could host parties and events, community gatherings and flea markets to raise the money. My stomach sank. There was no chance that any of us from our deprived London borough could raise that kind of money. I was right. Nobody went to Costa Rica.

It was encouraging (if a little poignant) that my recent visit was on such a different note: on a National Geographic expedition to Costa Rica.

We consciously chose to travel with National Geographic over more luxurious options (including luxury eco-lodges, private jet expeditions, small ship cruises, and tours with an expert) because it fits our outdoorsy travel style perfectly.

The Natural Highlights of Costa Rica tour promised a mix of adventure, conservation and education. To be honest, I was expecting quite a bit of preaching since we were in Costa Rica (famous for sustainable tourism) on a tour with National Geographic (famous for its environmental work), but it never got boring.

The one talk we gave was very captivating and combined with the natural beauty, delicious food and exciting activities, made our trip to Costa Rica worth the wait. Here's what we enjoyed most.

National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica: Highlights

1. Santa Elena Cloud Forest

Included activity

The Santa Elena cloud forest was probably the highlight of the entire expedition. The montane cloud forest represents one of the most endangered ecosystems on earth, so it was an absolute privilege to walk among the clouds here. We had bad weather, but that didn't detract from the experience. In fact, watching the lush canopy shivering under the rain added a sense of surrealism.

The cloud forest in Santa Elena and neighboring Monteverde is famous for its epiphytes: moss-like organisms that grow on the surface of plants and trees. Epiphytes not only support other organisms, they also give the forest something magical. Needless to say, we fell in love with her.

Read more: Santa Elena Cloud Forest: a fairytale hike in Costa Rica

2. Tortilla making with Doña Mara

Included activity

• alt=“Dona Mara kocht auf unserer National Geographic Expedition nach Costa Rica“>
• alt=“Dona Mara kocht auf unserer National Geographic Expedition nach Costa Rica“>
• alt=“Dona Mara kocht auf unserer National Geographic Expedition nach Costa Rica“>
• alt=“Dona Mara kocht auf unserer National Geographic Expedition nach Costa Rica“>
• alt=“Dona Mara kocht auf unserer National Geographic Expedition nach Costa Rica“>
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• alt=“Peter Tortilla-Herstellung auf unserer National Geographic Expedition nach Costa Rica“>

That was the real surprise of the trip. Peter and I prefer landscapes, nature and wildlife over cultural experiences. So when we saw tortilla making on the itinerary, we thought it would be a perfectly entertaining evening, but not much more.

We were wrong. Learning how to make tortillas with local artisan Doña Mara in her family home was not only great fun but also deeply inspiring. Doña Mara told us that in the early days of their business, her husband refused to invest and instead took out a bank loan. A few years later, she counts National Geographic and G Adventures among her regular customers.

3. Spotting a red-eyed tree frog

Optional activity

alt=“A red-eyed tree frog on our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica”>Atlas & BootsA red-eyed tree frog

National Geographic is famous for sending scientists, storytellers and adventurers to distant cultures and territories to better understand our planet. From this legacy, the Expedition Branch was born to make it easier for others to access the same wonders. With this in mind, our group headed to Arenal Volcano.

On the slopes of this gigantic wonder we discovered the red-eyed tree frog. This famous amphibian sleeps with its eyes closed, sticking to the bottom of leaves. When disturbed, it flashes its large red eyes, orange webbed feet and blue-yellow flanks in a technique known as "shock coloration" to give predators pause for the precious moment it needs to get to safety. Our frog was relatively relaxed and gave us just enough time to take a photo or two.

4. Horse riding in Monteverde

Optional activity

alt="Horseback riding in Monteverde">Atlas & BootsHorse riding in Monteverde

I recently got back on my horse after a riding injury in 2017 and was desperate to keep going. Accordingly, we used one of our free afternoons to go horseback riding in Monteverde.

Unlike my last trip (in Swakop in Namibia), this trip was full of changing landscapes. We rode through shady forests to open grasslands, spotting owls, coatis and other wildlife along the way.

An unexpected rainbow and a stunning sunset were a fitting end to a beautiful day, almost as if they were magically there.

5. Tree planting at the Monteverde Institute

Included activity

alt=“Planting trees at the Monteverde Institute on our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica”>Atlas & BootsPlanting trees at the Monteverde Institute

Each year, the nonprofit National Geographic Society – supported in part by National Geographic Expeditions – awards hundreds of grants to scientists, educators, innovators and storytellers who work to preserve, protect and expand our understanding of the planet. We've seen this at the Monteverde Institute, where researchers are tasked with monitoring the fragile cloud forest to better understand how to protect it.

After a short talk from Executive Director Debra Hamilton, we helped plant some trees ourselves. At the end we received certificates that we had compensated for our flights to Costa Rica.

Read more: Withering Heights: Saving the Monteverde Cloud Forest

6. Lost Canyon

Optional activity

This was a top highlight of our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica. We joined local operator Desafio for a morning canyoning through Lost Canyon.

We rappelled down waterfalls, jumped into pools, zoomed down guided rappels, climbed down canyon walls and river boulders, and hiked through the rainforest.

The camaraderie in the group was very special as everyone from 25-year-old teachers to 60-year-old retirees cheered and shouted their way through the course.

7. Visit to the Mi Cafecito coffee cooperative

Included activity

alt=“Coffee beans at Mi Cafecito on our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica”>Atlas & BootsCoffee beans at Mi Cafecito

This was another surprise. As I said above, Peter and I prefer wildlife and nature over cultural experiences, but we really enjoyed our morning at this coffee co-op.

We learned how Mi Cafecito supports the local economy, picked coffee beans ourselves, and tasted some of the freshest coffee we've ever tasted.

Personally, I'm not a caffeine junkie, but Peter was definitely in his happy place - especially after drinking his coffee like the Costa Ricans: black without a trace of sugar.

8. La Paz Waterfall

Included activity

alt="La Paz Waterfall in Costa Rica">Atlas & BootsLa Paz Waterfall in Costa Rica

La Paz Waterfall was a quick stop on the second day of our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica on the way from the capital of San Jose to La Fortuna.

This picturesque waterfall warrants a stop for photos alone, but the real bonus is walking right up to it and standing right behind it.

We sailed to Iguazu and perhaps didn't appreciate La Paz as much as it deserved. A fellow traveler said he was glad to go home right away because he had no hope of climbing over the waterfall.

9. Manuel Antonio National Park

Included activity

alt="A hummingbird in Manuel Antonio National Park">Atlas & BootsA hummingbird in Manuel Antonio National Park

Our experience in Manuel Antonio suffered a bit due to the high season. The city itself was busy and the beaches were full of holidaymakers and hawkers. Despite this, the park itself remained calm and quiet.

We took a walk with local guide Johannes and were able to spot a hummingbird, a red-eyed tree frog, a sloth, some bats and lots of monkeys - some through a telescope. Afterwards we took a swim in the Pacific Ocean, which was just as blissful as it sounds.

Read more: Looking for sloths in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

10. Sunset Sails

Optional activity

alt=“Surprise whales on our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica”>Atlas & BootsA surprise whale on our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica

We initially rejected the option of a sunset sail. At $80 per person it was a bit steep, so we planned a pool day instead. However, when the booking window closed, we decided we wanted to end our trip on a high note. I said in the lessons I learned traveling the world that when you have doubts, spend the money - and that's what we did.

We expected a pleasant afternoon on the water. What we didn't foresee was the visit of five (five!) humpback whales and a pod of dolphins. It was an extraordinary end to an extraordinary journey.

National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica: The most important thing

What: Explore Costa Rica's natural highlights.

Where: We stayed in a range of mid-range hotels, from the lavish grounds and comfortable rooms at Arenal Manoa in La Fortuna to simpler mountain lodge-style accommodations at Hotel Heliconia in Monteverde and even shipping containers repurposed as rooms at El Faro near Manuel Antonio.

When: The best time to travel to Costa Rica is the dry season from December to April. Plenty of sunshine makes it an ideal time to explore both the treetops and the coast. However, this is high season so expect more tourists and higher prices. The low season from May to July and November is also a good time to visit. It rains more, but it is quieter and the forests of Costa Rica are bursting with leaves.

How: We took a 9-day tour of Costa Rica's natural highlights with National Geographic Expeditions.

The tour costs from £1,199 and includes a Chief Experience Officer (CEO), all accommodation, transport between destinations, all breakfasts, some meals and numerous activities including a guided nature hike in the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, a guided hike in Manuel Antonio National Park, tree planting and a lecture at the Monteverde Institute, learning how to make Doña Mara tortillas in their family home and a tour of the Mi Cafecito coffee cooperative.

Optional activities include volcano hiking, horseback riding, canyoning, ziplining, stand-up paddleboarding, sailing, and parasailing.

The tour is classified as a National Geographic Journey, operated in partnership with G Adventures. More luxurious options are available under the Luxury Eco Lodges, Private Tours, Private Jet Expeditions, Expedition Cruises, River Cruises and Tours With An Expert banners.

For more information or bookings call 0800 440 2551 or book online.

We flew to Costa Rica with British Airways. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Disclosure: We traveled to Costa Rica with support from National Geographic Expeditions. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

Cover image: Brandon Alms/Shutterstock

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