Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu: Highlights and Lowlights

Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu: Highlights and Lowlights

I look back at the highlights and low points of our Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu, Peru, to help future trekkers prepare for the challenge ahead

There are three things I feared as I embarked on our year-long journey around the world. First: the mistakes (let's face it, that was justified).

Second: our multi-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu in Peru (Was I fit enough? Could I handle the altitude? What about the lack of a dresser? Would I collapse after a long bout of camping?). Third: Dealing with the Patagonian winter (I'll tackle that battle when I get to it).

After completing the 5-day Salkantay hike with Alpaca Expeditions, I am happy to report that it was much easier than I expected. Day 1 was indeed the most challenging with several hours of uphill climbing, but after that everything was pretty easy.

I have compiled a list of tips, highlights and lowlights to help future trekkers prepare for the challenge ahead.

Mark

Arrive at our camp on day 3 and get your first glimpse of Machu Picchu in the distance. Of course, seeing it properly on the last day was a highlight, but the view from this point was truly majestic, not to mention the hordes of tourists.

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We had the entire campsite to ourselves. Eating, reading, sleeping and waking up to such epic views was truly something special.

Little light

On day 2 it had rained all day, my clothes were soaked and even my trusty hiking boots had long since given way to the relentless rain. When we arrived at our campsite, every single piece of clothing on my body was wet.

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Taking everything off while shivering in the tent was a low point. The next day we all had to carry plastic bags to protect our socks from our soaked boots.

Most exciting moment

On the second day we had been trying to cross the river for about an hour. The bridge we were trying to use had been washed away. There was a zipline and some baskets that could transport people back and forth, but with the river raging below, our guides decided it was just too dangerous.

We continued walking until we came across a landslide area. Our guides debated whether they should take us across, but since we had no other option, we convinced them that we could cross carefully. And so the two of us set off along the slippery, rocky path.

One misstep could have sent us tumbling down, but we got across safely. Our guides Lizandro and Amirico had to lead one of the girls over by the hand, ready to grab her if something went wrong. It all felt very Indiana Jones.

Least exciting moment

After three thoroughly exciting days, day 4 was relatively prosaic with walks lasting several hours along the train tracks. Unfortunately this is the only way to get to Aguas Calientes on the hike and so we went on and on and on and on.

Best conversation

To speak with Amirico about his efforts to learn English and his hopes of one day becoming a leading tour guide like Lizandro. He had only been learning for six months, but his level of performance was already so impressive. I tested his English and he tested my Spanish. I'm humble enough to admit that he was much better!

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The worst conversation

Let's just say Lizandro needs to work on his jokes.

Wouldn't work

Snacks. Alpaca offers a hearty breakfast, mid-morning snacks, delicious lunches, a late afternoon happy hour with even more snacks, and a dinner feast, so you really don't need any extra groceries.

would bring

An extra pair of socks. However many you pack, pack one more. Five is a good number six, even better. Also, a CamelBak style hydration system would be useful. I had a standard bottle, but drinking from a CamelBak is much easier and encourages you to stay hydrated.

Things I did right

• An Tag 1 super langsam angehen. Die Kombination aus Bergaufwandern und 4.600 Höhenmetern hätte mich erschöpft und dehydriert zurückgelassen, wenn ich mich nicht bewusst bemüht hätte, langsamer zu fahren, als ich konnte. Kümmern Sie sich nicht darum, mit der Gruppe Schritt zu halten; gehen Sie in Ihrem eigenen Tempo. Dies ist besonders wichtig, wenn Sie sich wie ich entscheiden, nichts gegen die Höhenkrankheit einzunehmen.
• Entscheiden Sie sich für die Verwendung von Wanderstöcken. Ich hatte diese noch nie zuvor benutzt und war an ihrer Nützlichkeit zweifelhaft, aber sie waren auf den langen Bergaufstrecken so hilfreich.
• Regenhose in letzter Minute kaufen. Ich habe diese in letzter Minute (gegen 22 Uhr in der Nacht vor der Wanderung) abgeholt und sie waren super nützlich. Packen Sie ein Paar ein, wenn Sie in der Regenzeit wandern.
• Drei Tage lang auf eine Dusche verzichten. Ich habe endlich herausgefunden, was ich all die Male falsch gemacht habe, als ich campen gegangen bin und es gehasst habe (wie in Fidschi und in Kolumbien). Ich bestand darauf, Duschen zu nehmen, die entweder eiskalt oder schmutzig waren. Eigentlich war es so viel einfacher, einfach nicht zu duschen. Zum Glück hatte ich viele Feuchttücher dabei.

Things I did wrong

• Abends zu wenig gegessen: Nach 10 Kilometern Wandern war ich meistens zu erschöpft, um mich richtig zu ernähren. Trotz der von Küchenchef Mario auf wundersame Weise zubereiteten Festmahle stocherte ich im Allgemeinen in meinem Essen herum, bevor ich mich entschuldigte, in meinem Zelt zusammenzubrechen. Das bedeutete, dass mein Energieniveau niedrig war und mir nachts kälter als nötig war.
• Meine Regenjacke nicht unter meinem Poncho tragen: Die mitgelieferten Regenponchos sind riesig, also habe ich nicht die Mühe gemacht, eine Regenjacke darunter zu tragen. Leider war der Regen so stark, dass ich trotzdem nass wurde. Es war ein Fehler, keine zusätzliche wasserdichte Schicht zu tragen.

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Salkantay trekking to Machu Picchu: the essentials

What: 5 days, 4 nights Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu with Alpaca Expeditions. The hike winds through the Vilcabamba mountain range and passes through a range of landscapes, from cloud forests to high mountains. Along the way there are beautiful views of the second highest mountain in the Cusco area, Salkantay ('Wild Mountain') at 6,271 m (19,685 ft).

Price: $575 USD per person. Group size varies from two to a maximum of 16 people (Alpaca tries to keep it to a minimum). We hiked in a group of nine.

Where: Vilcabamba Mountains, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu – all in Peru.

When: The dry season runs from May to November and is best for trekking. The busiest months are June, July and August, so expect crowds in Machu Picchu around this time. If you travel during the rainy season (December to April), expect rain three to four afternoons per week.

How: The easiest way to get to Cusco is to fly from Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima (book through skyscanner.net). Arrival is also possible by bus. We recommend Cruz del Sur (21 hours, about $60 per person). It's spice

h Extra charge to be paid for the 'Cama' seats instead of the 'Semi-Cama' seats. There are fewer people on the floor, larger seats and plenty of legroom.

In terms of the actual hike, we absolutely loved Alpaca Expeditions (info@alpacaexpeditions.com). The food prepared by Mario was delicious, the equipment was comfortable, the organization was impeccable and our guides were brilliant: knowledgeable, responsible and most of all so much fun.

The price hit our budget and there are cheaper options, but we chose Alpaca because they treat their porters and guides ethically. They ensure that there are a sufficient number of porters on a hike so that they are never overloaded, provide them with quality equipment, and pay decent living wages.

The owner, Raul, was once a leader himself and therefore understands the importance of treating his employees well. That was crucial for our decision to choose alpaca.

Lonely Planet South America includes a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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