Swimming with humpback whales in Tonga

Swimming with humpback whales in Tonga

Swimming with humpback whales in Tonga was a truly humbling experience that almost didn't happen for us! But luck was on our side that day

It was late October and nearing the end of the whale watching season in Tonga. We had been delayed in Samoa about a week longer than expected and arrived in Tonga just two days before the last day of the season.

Not wanting to miss our opportunity to swim with whales, we hastily flew north to the Vava’u Islands, one of the best places to see the humpback whales. These majestic creatures migrate north from Antarctica each summer to breed in warmer waters, returning once their young are strong enough for the journey.

At the very last start of the season we were able to secure a place. Gary from Dolphin Pacific quietly explained that we shouldn't get our hopes up.

First, clients typically allow at least three days to swim with humpback whales in Tonga - we only had one.

Second, most of the whales had already started their return journey, so our chances of seeing one were slim.

Finally, we were very aware of the strict laws protecting whales and therefore were not prepared to pressure the guides into “chasing” them like some tourists do.

We started the day at 8am when the beautiful Pacific weather left us without warning. The sea became turbulent and unmercifully gray. Despite my eternal optimism, perhaps Gary (and Kia, the eternal realist) were right: maybe this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity would just be a damp squib.

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Besides the two of us, there was a third tourist on the boat, Koichi from Japan. He had spent four days watching whales and this would be his last day. I noticed he had the same model GoPro camera that I had heartbreakingly ruined the day before.

Maybe if we saw whales it wouldn't go undocumented like I feared. It was the only thing that cheered me up on this increasingly gloomy day. After two hours in the middle of very choppy seas and driving rain, things weren't looking good.

“Whales!”

To our sudden delight, a mother and her calf had been spotted off the bow. However, due to a law regarding the positioning of our boat, we were unable to enter the water. Another hour passed and we clung to the hope that the day would end well.

The second time we saw whales, we quickly entered the water as instructed. Unfortunately, we were too late to even catch a glimpse and returned to the boat with nothing but a mouthful of salt water in our snorkels.

Another hour passed before we were plunged into the water again. This time, to our amazement and delight, we were rewarded with incredible seconds of swimming alongside the two humpback whales. When we got back on board Kia and I couldn't stop smiling.

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"Great!" we exclaimed repeatedly, unable to find another word. Seeing these beautiful mammals in their natural habitat was truly impressive. This signaled the turn of our luck.

By midday the sky cleared and we were able to swim with whales three more times, giving us a more intimate and breathtaking view. It was such a surreal and humbling experience. Seeing these majestic creatures up close was hands down one of my best travel experiences ever.

And to top it all off, Koichi took some amazing shots that he was only too happy to share with us.

Thank you, Kochi!

Swimming with Humpback Whales in Tonga: The Essentials

What: Swimming with humpback whales in Tonga.

Where: We stayed at Vava’u Villa, just a 3-minute walk from Muikilekila Beach – a rocky beach overlooking Neiafu Harbour. Vava’u Villa is a relaxing place with beautiful panoramic sea views. Guests can use the hotel's bicycles free of charge.

When: The best time to visit Tonga is between May and October during the country's dry season. The rainy season lasts from November to April, with December and January being the wettest months.

The best time to swim with humpback whales in Tonga is during mating season, which runs from early July to late October. During this time, whale watching trips take place every day except Sundays.

How: The city of Neiafu sits on the edge of the Port of Refuge - probably one of the most photogenic ports in the world! Dolphin Pacific is located right on the water in the center of town, next to the Puataukanave International Hotel and the small boat harbor.

To get to Vava’u, book flights with REALtonga, who offer some of the best deals in the Pacific on domestic flights, and the views are sensational. Book international flights to Tonga with skyscanner.net.

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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