Chittorgarh Fort in India: It is not the Taj Mahal

Chittorgarh Fort in India: It is not the Taj Mahal

Chittorgarh Fort is the Rajasthani gem that is rarely promoted as a must-visit

If you decide to take the trip of a lifetime to “find yourself” in India, it will likely include a trip to the Taj, a date with the Dalai Lama, a tour of the pink city of Jaipur, and many other “Spirit of India” experiences that the guides will offer you.

These sights are of course all worth your time, but don't miss Chittorgarh Fort, the Rajasthani gem that is rarely promoted as a must-see.

I arrived in Chittorgarh after a 48-hour journey from Mumbai that included delayed trains (plural) and a rough night on a platform at Ratlam Junction (a whole other story).

alt=“Fort Chittogargh – The Blue City”>Fort Chittogargh – The Blue City

I never intended to spend time in Chittorgarh - I was heading further north to Bhilwara - but as my train had arrived late in the evening, I saw the sunset over the beautiful 'blue city' (almost all the houses are painted sky blue) and I thought a night or two here wouldn't do me any harm at all.

I jumped in a tuk tuk and asked the driver to take me to a decent hotel. During the drive I asked him about the city and he told me the only thing to see was the fortress on the hill overlooking the city.

After a quick conversation, he arranged to pick me up in the morning and take me on a customized tour. The fortress is really impressive. First built in the 8th century, it has been sacked, besieged, destroyed and rebuilt many times - and yet remains the largest and best fortress in all of India.

alt=“Chittorgarh Fort”>Chittorgarh Fort

Wander the ruins, climb the towers, dip your feet in the ghats and talk to the people. Not many Westerners make it here – Rajasthan's many other sights and experiences too often distract them – so locals are keen to chat.

As mentioned earlier, the fort overlooks the small and beautiful city of Chittorgarh or “Chittor” for short. I sat in the sun for hours looking at the hazy blue view. Chittorgarh is a tranquil place for contemplation and offers a perfect break from the cliche train.

alt="Chittorgarh Fort">

Chittorgarh Fort: the essentials

When to go: Avoid Indian summer – you can't hack it. The British winter (Christmas, if you can get away from the family) is a great time to visit Rajasthan. The days are hot and sunny giving way to cooler evenings – some evenings you might even need a sweater!

How: Chittorgarh is located about 100 km east of Udaipur or 200 km south of Ajmer and is easily accessible by train and bus. If you're coming from the south, take a train to Ratlam Junction and spend an hour or two chatting with the locals before taking the next train north to Chittorgarh.

If you're lucky, you'll meet a charming local named Dhani who will give you a ride on his motorbike...

Lonely Planet India is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.
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