Ella Rock: how to hike it yourself (unguided)

Ella Rock: how to hike it yourself (unguided)

A guide to hiking Ella Rock, including detailed directions, a downloadable route map, a video and a list of essential tips

Ella in Sri Lanka is beautiful, they said. “The closest thing to an English country village” and the perfect place to slow down, we had read.

I thought about that sadly as I raced through the roaring traffic to avoid yet another taxi driver who insisted on taking me somewhere I didn't want to go. The main street, dotted with milkshake shacks and charmless cafes, is a noisy and churning stretch of amenities designed just for tourists.

It's only when you leave the village and literally head for the hills that you'll see the Ella of guidebooks: grand and expansive views that stretch as far as the eye can see.

Nowhere are they more impressive than at the summit of Ella Rock, a dramatic peak about 5km from town. Hiking Ella Rock is fun, confusing, strenuous and rewarding. How to hike without the help of a guide.

Hiking routes

Start: Ella Train StationDestination: Ella Train StationDistance: 10 km round trip (approx.) Time: 3 hours round trip (approx.) - with an additional hour for the sightseeing above

1. Beginnen Sie am Bahnhof Ella. Wenn Sie den Bahnhof betreten, biegen Sie links ab und gehen Sie bis zum Ende des Bahnsteigs. Steigen Sie auf die Gleise und gehen Sie von dort aus weiter. Machen Sie sich keine Sorgen über das Schild, das vor dem Betreten warnt; Jeder, einschließlich der Einheimischen, tut es jeden Tag und niemand wird Sie aufhalten.

The walk is reminiscent of the classic film Stand By Me, so take your time and enjoy the view. However, note that this is a working railway, so watch out for trains and get off the tracks if one approaches.

alt=“Start your Ella Rock hike at Ella train station”>Atlas & BootsStart your Ella Rock hike at Ella Station (Atlas & Boots)

1. Gehen Sie etwa 40 Minuten lang die Gleise entlang. Sie werden schließlich am Bahnhof von Kithalella ankommen. Gehen Sie weiter auf den Gleisen am Bahnhof vorbei. Ignorieren Sie jeden, der sagt, dass Sie in die falsche Richtung gehen, oder der versucht, Sie auf die „richtige“ Route zu lenken. Werber tun dies, um Touristen dazu zu bringen, ihre Dienste als Reiseführer zu kaufen.

Update 09/25/2017: A comment below from reader David Hinrichs warns that there are even fake signs now, so be sure to follow our instructions carefully. When in doubt, use our Ella Rock hiking map below.

alt=“Ella Rock hiking trail”>Hike past Kithalella train station to Ella Rock (Atlas & Boots)

1. Halten Sie nach 5-10 Minuten Ausschau nach einem Felsen, der mit einem blauen Pfeil und einem Schild mit der Aufschrift „Ella Rock“ gekennzeichnet ist. Biegen Sie an dieser Kreuzung links ab. Die Markierung verblasst mit der Zeit (und kann sogar mit Zement bedeckt sein), also merken Sie sich, dass Sie nach dem Wegzeichen 166 ½, aber vor dem Wegzeichen 166 ¼ links abbiegen müssen.

alt=“Blue graffiti pointing towards Ella Rock”> Look out for this mark, but be warned that it may be faded or covered (Atlas & Boots).

old=““>Chris BrownThe blue marking may be covered with cement (Atlas & Boots)

alt=“ella rock sharp left”>The sharp left, marked by the blue marking (Atlas & Boots)

1. Folgen Sie dem Weg und überqueren Sie die Fußgängerbrücke. Nach der Brücke kommen Sie an eine Weggabelung. Nehmen Sie den linken Pfad (im Video unten gezeigt). Der alternative Weg führt auch nach oben, aber er schlängelt sich mehr und führt eher zum Verirren.
2. Bleiben Sie auf dem Weg hinauf in die Teeplantage. Bald darauf passieren Sie langes Gras und zweifeln vielleicht, ob Sie auf dem richtigen Weg sind. Weitermachen. Uns wird gesagt, dass Werber das Gras lang halten, um Verwirrung zu stiften. Bleiben Sie geradeaus auf dem Weg; nicht ausschalten.

alt=“tall grass on ella rock hike”>Stay straight on the trail; don't turn off (Atlas & Boots)

1. Kurz nach dem hohen Gras öffnet sich der Weg und biegt nach rechts ab. Dieser führt Sie zu einem Zwischenaussichtspunkt.

alt=“Intermediate viewpoint on the Ella Rock hike”>Atlas & BootsThe intermediate viewpoint on the way to Ella Rock (Atlas & Boots)

1. Vom Zwischenaussichtspunkt aus ist es ein gerader, aber steiler Weg zum Gipfel des Ella Rock. Wenn Sie dort angekommen sind, nehmen Sie sich Zeit, um die Aussicht zu genießen – sie ist eine der besten des Landes!

old=““>Atlas & BootsThe View from Ella Rock (Atlas & Boots)

On the way back down you may want to take an alternative route. To do this, go back to the intermediate viewpoint and simply follow the tourists in the opposite direction of the path that led you there.

Ella Rock hiking map

Ella Rock hiking tips

Start early: The midday sun is extremely strong, so start your hike to Ella Rock early. Try to leave Ella station no later than 9am.

Wear sensible shoes: The hike to Ella Rock is steep towards the end and can be slippery after rain, so wear appropriate shoes.

Pack the basics: As with any hike, you can’t neglect the basics. Bring plenty of water, snacks, sunscreen and insect repellent. In the steep final section I had to take a snack break because I had very little energy.

Avoid Advertisers: On two separate occasions we were told by advertisers that we had made a mistake. We politely thanked him and continued on our planned route to the summit of Ella Rock. A couple we met at the top said they had been taken from the correct path onto a more convoluted route and then asked for a tip. Trust your instincts.

Avoid leeches: We read that there were leeches on the way to Ella Rock, so wore long pants but didn't see any of these slimy creatures. To avoid getting too hot, wear zip-offs that you can put on while walking through tall grass and take off when necessary.

Tell us how it went! Add a comment below or email us to tell us about your own hike to Ella Rock.

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Atlas & Boots

Ella Rock Hike: The Essentials

What: Hiking at Ella Rock in Sri Lanka.

Where: We booked our stay quite late and ended up on the main street at Ella Dream Cafe. While the rooms were nice and spacious, they were also ridiculously noisy (a mix of traffic, tourists, and blaring music from the adjacent bar).

Instead, we recommend Lonely Planet's suggestions for the Ella Flower Garden Resort or the Zion View Ella.

When: The best time to visit Ella is from December to March, when the hill country is at its driest. The shoulder season from April and September to November is a good time to visit, while the Yala monsoon season from May to August brings rain to the hill country.

How: If you're planning more hiking in Sri Lanka, it's worth investing in a decent map. Sri Lanka 1:500,000 + City Maps Waterproof Travel Map is by far the best map available for hiking in Sri Lanka. On one side of the map are relief shading, point heights and names of mountain ranges and prominent peaks.

You can reach Ella by train from Colombo and Kandy (check the timetable here; note that "Ella" is spelled "Elle" in the search dropdown).

Depending on your starting point, different bus lines are available. It's worth noting that we found bus travel in Sri Lanka quite stressful, so you may want to take a transfer instead. Your hotel can arrange this, but it's always worth negotiating a discount as these are usually excessive (e.g. if it says LKR 15,000, ask for 11,000).

Many tourists choose to hire a driver for the entire trip. This costs approximately $45 per day (including days you don't use the driver). We used Ajaa (+94 777 284 178) and Sisi (+94 777 203 083) for shorter transfers and found them friendly and reliable.

Most international flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB). Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

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