San Agustin: the mystical funny faces of Colombia

San Agustin: the mystical funny faces of Colombia

San Agustin, Colombia is a sleepy little town buried in the rolling green hills of the southwestern part of the country. The city unfortunately lacks the pretty and picturesque charm of colorful Guatape or delightful Salento, but it makes up for it with Colombia's most beautiful archaeological park, within walking distance.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, the Parque Arqueológico is home to over a hundred 3,300-year-old statues carved in stone by the area's famous pre-Hispanic masons.

Comparable to the Moai statues on Easter Island, if not quite on the same scale, they depict some pretty beguiling, if not downright creepy, animal-human hybrid creatures. Fanged faces smile awkwardly at you from all angles as you wander the forested paths and climb the green hilltops.

Much mystery surrounds the statues and the civilization that built them. Despite decades of archaeological renovation and research, there are still no clear answers as to why these statues (and why so many) were carved and erected.

Ritual burial traditions are the most popular explanation. However, since there is little or no documented evidence of this pre-Hispanic civilization, it will likely remain a mystery forever.

One suggestion was that the local population may have consumed the hallucinogenic San Isidro mushrooms, which grow wild on the nearby green and fertile slopes. This could explain the snake-headed people, sex-crazed monkeys, and other rather disturbing (and hilarious) stone images depicted.

As I wandered through the park, I certainly felt a bit like an old-school Livingstone-esque explorer. This may have been because we stumbled upon a fairly large tarantula on our way at some point, or perhaps it was simply because I was wearing my favorite expedition shirt.

Whatever the case, knowing that the statues and tombs date from a mysterious time that neither the Spanish colonizers nor the Inca Empire can explain evoked a certain element of old world romance and nostalgia.

There are four main attractions in the main park, including a strenuous climb to Alto de Lavapatas, the oldest of the sites, which offers great views of the surrounding countryside. Upon arrival at the park there is a small but informative museum and visitor center where a map of the park is provided by park staff.

Depending on your enthusiasm for very old and rather creepy animal-human hybrid statues, there are other places to explore in the area. Alto de los Idolos, El Tablón, La Chaquira, El Purutal and La Pelota can all be explored on foot, by jeep or on horseback.

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How do I get to San Augustin?

The Parque Arqueológico is 2.5 km walk from the center of San Agustin. The location is well signposted and easy to find. Local taxis are also available. San Agustin takes a bit of dedication to get there. There are direct buses from Bogotá (10-12 hours) and Popayán (6-7 hours).

However, we were coming from Medellin, which meant a 14-16 hour bus ride to nearby Pitalito. From here you will then need to take a 45-minute shared taxi to San Agustin (4,000 COP p/person), which may or may not take you to your accommodation depending on the driver. We tipped our driver an additional 2,000 COP as he took us up the hill to our hotel.

Be warned – the bus onwards to Popayán was a particularly torturous affair! The “road” is unpaved for long stretches and is therefore very bumpy and we were unlucky that our bus broke down, meaning we had to wait on the side of the road for two hours and then scramble for the next one. Be prepared for your stated travel time to potentially double!

We can recommend the Hotel La Casa de François, where we camped, but which also offers dorms and private rooms with a decent restaurant on site and great views of the surrounding countryside.

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Lonely Planet South America includes a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.
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