Diving in Djibouti: my first wreck

Diving in Djibouti: my first wreck

Diving in Djibouti isn't on many bucket lists, but as we learned on our trip to the country, it can be even better than Mauritius or Tahiti

Djibouti, it is said, is the Dubai of the Horn. Its port location and peaceful nature in an otherwise turbulent region have made it a prime location for foreign interest. The country is home to Africa's largest U.S. Army base and France's largest Foreign Legion deployment. China, Japan, Italy, Germany and Spain also have soldiers stationed there.

The military presence has given Djibouti a reputation for security, but has also created a rather unpleasant atmosphere. It's less "hedonistic playground" and more "good fun." There are no bikinis and heels like in Miami or happy drunks like in Dubai on the streets. Even taking a photo of a public building could result in a reprimand - as happened to Peter on the second day.

Still, Djibouti feels exciting because it is largely undiscovered. World-class attractions include Lac Assal, Lac Abbé and whale sharks, as well as excellent diving. With calm, warm waters and a variety of underwater delights, Djibouti's Gulf of Tadjoura is particularly suitable for underwater activities.

alt="The Gulf of Tadjoura is ideal for diving in Djibouti">Atlas & BootsThe Gulf of Tadjoura offers excellent diving in Djibouti

I was excited (and nervous) about my first ever wreck dive: Orchard Reefer, a huge 135m long cargo ship at depths ranging from 10m to 28m. The ship sank in 1975 after an explosion in the engine room. Today it lies on its port side near Moucha Island, 9 km from Djibouti City.

We had hoped to dive a wreck in Trou aux Biches, Mauritius a few months earlier, but the conditions weren't quite right. Peter has been particularly excited since diving the wreck of the Juno, a small ship in Samoa. The prospect of exploring a real wreck had us both buzzing with joy.

Our arrangements were on fairly short notice, so we were pleased when Dolphin Excursions managed to arrange a dive in time. We met our divemaster, an Australian named Sarah, and her trainee Kelly early in the morning at the Port de Pêche (fish market and harbor), 2km from the city center. We were joined by Chris, a contractor stationed at the US Army base. We neither asked nor volunteered what type of contracts he does.

alt="Dolphin Excursions organized a last minute dive in Djibouti">Atlas & BootsDolphin Excursions arranged our last minute dive

Sarah briefed us about the dive and put me at ease with her friendly, professional manner. Given the warm water temperature, we would be diving without wetsuits in Djibouti. This helped immensely as half the battle of diving is getting in and out of these damn things.

I grabbed 4kg worth of weights and strapped them around my waist, debating whether or not I should grab another one. Blessed with a pretty "swimmy" butt, I often need more weights than my height would suggest. I decided to stay with the four and put on my BCD and bottle.

I chose to roll backwards into the water rather than assemble my gear in the sea. I'm not a water person, so maneuvering a heavy canister on my back in the water is never my first choice. We took a few seconds to do our checks before we began our descent.

alt=“When diving in Djibouti we make ourselves comfortable in the water”>Feel comfortable in the water

After a short break to compensate, I realized that I couldn't descend any further. That damn ass. Luckily Sarah had brought extra weights and put one in my bag. Later, when my tank was empty, she would have to give me another one.

I joined the group and we began our dive in earnest. We approached the Orchard Reefer, a ship so large it's hard to tell you're swimming along a deck rather than a barnacle-strewn natural wall.

alt=“Sliding through a crack in the Orchard Reefer in Djibouti”>Slipping through a crack in the Orchard Reefer

As we glided along we came to a crack in the deck that went right through the hull. Marked by age and decay, the crack was several meters wide. Sarah slipped through and I followed, completely stunned.

Threaded ropes fanned out like tentacles while huge sheets of metal groaned and strained beneath rust and coral. Groups of batfish watched us curiously as glassfish and snappers danced by. It really felt otherworldly.

After plenty of time to explore, we crossed the hull and emerged through the gap on the other side. Then we circled back to the stern and prepared to climb.

Soon we emerged, excited and victorious. Our experience diving in Djibouti was just as special as the one in Mauritius. The visibility wasn't quite the same, but the experience itself was one of our best underwater.

Before our second dive we stopped for lunch, this time at Masakali Reef, where we saw more batfish, a friendly lionfish and even a large ray sweeping across the seabed.

alt=“A ray skims the seabed while diving in Djibouti”>Atlas & BootsA jet sweeps across the ocean floor

The sea life was impressive, but I remember diving after the wreck in Djibouti. After swimming through tunnels in Blue Bay, Mauritius and now with a wreck under my belt, I finally feel safer underwater.

The problem with diving, of course, is that once you're comfortable again, it's time to go home and you probably won't be diving for another six months. Maybe it's better this way because we don't become complacent. Not that I could imagine ever being smug about breathing underwater. I've been diving for three years now and I'm always impressed and excited. I doubt this feeling will ever go away.

Diving in Djibouti: the essentials

What: Diving in Djibouti, including the Orchard Reefer wreck and Masakali Reef.

Where: We stayed at the Hotel Residence de l’Europe, a mid-range hotel in the center of the city. The rooms are large and functional with excellent WiFi and views of Menelik Square. (Ask for a non-smoking room if you don't smoke.)

• alt=““>
• alt=“Decan Dschibuti Hotelresidenz“>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>

Atlas & Boots

The reception is staffed by English-speaking staff who are friendly and helpful, not least Mustafa, who exudes Djiboutian charm (when he says Hakuna, they say Matata).

The residence is close to restaurants, shops and amenities, including Pizzaiolo down the street, which makes a great blue cheese pizza - though be warned that food and accommodation prices are high in Djibouti, so adjust your expectations accordingly.

Overall, the Residence de l’Europe was a comfortable base to begin our journey.

When: The best time to visit Djibouti is November to January, when whale sharks make their annual visit and the weather is cooler. The low season of October and February to April is also a good time for diving. May-September is extremely hot.

How: We went diving in Djibouti with Dolphin Excursions. Our divemaster, Sarah, was excellent. In fact, she was one of the most professional divemasters we dived with. We felt fully briefed and absolutely confident that we were in good hands. Book your dives through Mathew: divedjibouti.com, info@divedjibouti.com.

Djibouti is a small country, which means getting around is pretty easy. Taxis from the airport charge a fixed fare to hotels in the city (around 2,000 DJF / 11 USD). Check the board outside the airport to make sure you are not being overcharged. Some hotels offer free shuttles, so inquire beforehand.

Book international flights through skyscanner.net at the best prices.

old=““>

Lonely Planet Ethiopia & Djibouti is a useful travel guide to Djibouti, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission Statement: Orchard Reefer; Fair use

      .