Diving with turtles in Samoa on the Juno wreck

Diving with turtles in Samoa on the Juno wreck

Diving the Juno wreck with turtles in Samoa was a unique experience. It is simply incredible to get so close and personal with the underwater world

“You will either love it or find it extremely depressing,” reads the guidebook’s description of the Satoalepai Turtle Sanctuary.

I've never been a big fan of zoos and captive wild animals. So when I read about the opportunity to go turtle diving at the Juno Wreck Sanctuary in Samoa, I decided to go for it. Maybe I'll get a chance to see them in the wild...

Diving with turtles in Samoa

We were in Manase on the north central coast of Savai’i, Samoa’s second largest island after the main island of Upolu. The pace is even slower on Savai'i with fewer activities available for tourists.

I hadn't used my PADI qualification much yet, so I was very pleased when I discovered there was a small scuba gear shop just up the road from our beach fales. Dive Savai’i is run by Olaf and Tina, a very friendly couple from Germany. Plus, at ST$260 (£70) for a two-tank dive, it wouldn't break the bank.

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There were four of us diving on Juno Wreck: Olaf as an instructor, Alex, a PADI student, and Peter, a middle-aged experienced diver who would be my diving partner for the day. The first dive of the day in Avao Bay was unfortunately unspectacular. Heavy rain overnight and brisk surf in the morning meant visibility wasn't particularly good.

The reef we were sailing on had also clearly suffered damage over the years. Starfish with crown of thornspestthe reef causes damage and destruction to the delicate ecosystem. On several occasions, Olaf interrupted the dive to destroy one of them with his reef knife.

If the first dive was unremarkable, I have to say that the second one was definitely remarkable!

Diving Juno wreckage

Juno Wreck is the site of a three-masted mission sailing ship that sank in 1881 in Lelepa Bay, off the coast of Savai'i. We descended from the stern of the ship and worked our way to the midship section.

Parts of the masts and deck are still recognizable and are now home to colorful coral gardens and even more colorful reef fish, including parrotfish and yellowtail snapper.

I spent my time darting between the crumbling beams and decks, enjoying the freedom that comes with being a PADI-certified diver. The qualification now means I'm essentially responsible for myself underwater: unnerving yet very exciting. I could now also take my camera downstairs.

On my previous dives I had skills and tasks to complete and my instructors rightly insisted that I focus on those rather than taking photos.

The big game of the day was of course the sea turtles. There are no guarantees when it comes to wildlife safaris and underwater safaris are no different. So when Olaf gestured to us that there was a turtle in front of us, we all very excitedly swam over to catch a glimpse before it swam away.

We needn't have worried. In our presence the turtle appeared largely casual and rightly more concerned with eating. We were lucky enough to see two more specimens during the dive.

Pursuing the PADI course back in Vanuatu proved to be absolutely worth it. Discovery dives are great fun, but the freedom that comes with the qualification makes the experience even better.

Getting up close and personal with underwater animals like sea turtles is just the icing on the cake. Diving the Juno wreck with turtles in Samoa was my first truly independent diving experience and I loved it!

I look forward to many more.

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