Bentota River Safari in Sri Lanka

Bentota River Safari in Sri Lanka

A Bentota River Safari promises all kinds of spooky things: crocodiles, snakes, bats and lizards. That's what happened to us

I was skeptical about our skipper. Short and slight and in his mid-teens, he barely uttered a word of greeting. Peter and I boarded the boat and set off on our Bentota river safari without instructions.

We had some information from our hotel about the length and price of the tour (2.5 hours, 1,800 LKR / $12 per person), but beyond that we had no idea what we might see.

Nevertheless, we were happy to be in Bentota. The coastal town in Sri Lanka's Galle district is 65 km (40 miles) south of Colombo and, along with Trincomalee to the north, makes a good beach stop to book a trip.

We drove from Colombo to the beach for a few days and booked a last minute river safari, and found ourselves on a boat with the most silent skipper this side of Finland. (Anyone who knows the Finns knows what I mean.)

alt="Bentota Beach offers a lovely bookend to a trip through Sri Lanka">Atlas & BootsBentota Beach offers a lovely bookend to a trip through Sri Lanka

We set off and sat in the sun. Perhaps this would be more of a pleasant boat ride on the river than a safari per se. Maybe that was okay. We had planned a lot of time in Sri Lanka, including stops at Yala National Park for leopards and Udawalawe for elephants. What did it matter if we didn't see anything on our Bentota river safari?

We cruised along for fifteen minutes until the skipper stopped the boat and pointed to a tree. We stretched and squinted, but saw nothing.

"There!" He said, motioning for us to get up and take a look. Sure enough, there was a big, fat water monitor laying lazily on a branch.

alt="The Asian water monitor is one of the heaviest lizards in the world">Atlas & BootsThe Asian water monitor is one of the heaviest lizards in the world

These large lizards are native to South and Southeast Asia and are considered the second heaviest lizard in the world after the Indonesian Komodo dragon. Adults can grow up to 2 m (6.6 ft) long and the largest specimen found in Sri Lanka was a whopping 3.21 m (10.5 ft).

Soon we stopped again, this time for a chameleon camouflaged by bright green leaves. Our skipper may not have been talkative, but he certainly had a good eye.

alt=“A clever chameleon spotted on our Bentota river safari”>Atlas & BootsA clever chameleon spotted on our Bentota river safari

Contrary to popular belief, chameleons do not change color primarily for camouflage, but rather for social signaling and body heat control. Light colors are used to show aggression or reflect heat, while dark colors signal submission and are used to absorb heat.

Our success so far gave us hope of seeing the crocodiles that often appear on a Bentota river safari.

We meandered past river dwellings and dense mangroves, pausing to watch the birdlife and spot a snake or two.

alt=“A tiny snake we saw on our Bentota river safari”>Atlas & BootsA tiny snake we saw on our Bentota river safari

About an hour into the safari we stopped on the river bank and the skipper called a friend over. We were dismayed to discover that it was a photo op with a small baby crocodile, a practice we strongly oppose.

We declined – more politely than we should have – and continued the tour. We tried to explain to our puzzled captain that we thought it was wrong to keep animals in captivity just to entertain tourists. I'm afraid we felt like privileged Westerners who only had such sensibilities because we could afford them.

We soon stopped at a coconut factory on the river (with the usual tour of the gift shop) and then boarded the boat again - guiltily because we hadn't bought anything. Back on the river we navigated through a narrow mangrove canopy. With a soundtrack that consisted only of birdsong and the faint creak of our boat, the scene felt incredibly distant.

alt=“Floating through a canopy of mangroves”>Atlas & BootsFloating through a canopy of mangroves

As we emerged from the canopy, we spotted a tree full of bats – but still no crocodiles. Soon we turned around and made our way back to shore, occasionally stopping for snakes or chameleons.

Half an hour before the end our skipper stopped the boat again. He pointed quietly through a small treetop. There, on the other side, was breeding a small crocodile, its reptilian eyes hovering well above the waterline.

alt="A crocodile breeds in the Bentota River">Atlas & BootsA crocodile breeds in the Bentota River

Even though it was obscured, this was a far better way to see a crocodile than touching one with its mouth taped shut.

As we walked back to the shore, we debated whether a Bentota river safari was worth it or not. Given the relatively low price, we think this is the case, but only if you're coming to Bentota anyway. The city lacks the major attractions of Yala, Udawalawe, Ella, Adam's Peak and Sigiriya, but given its proximity to Colombo and its pretty stretch of beach, it's an absolutely lovely way to start or end your trip.

Bentota River Safari: The Essentials

What: A Bentota river safari to see crocodiles, chameleons, water monitor lizards, bats, birds and snakes.

Where: We stayed at Amal Beach, a mid-range hotel on the beach. The Amal offers in-room WiFi, an on-site restaurant and free on-site parking. It's a short tuk-tuk ride to the center of Aluthgama, which, although lacking in charm, has all the amenities of a modern city. (We recommend Happy Garden Restaurant for a cheap and delicious meal.)

The beach is vast and mostly empty, making it easy to find a private spot when you're ready to stray from the sun lounger.

• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>

One of the most charming things about Amal and Bentota in general is the railway tracks that separate it from the beach. In theory, train tracks on the beach sound dubious, but in practice it was a charming addition to the grounds. A signalman is on duty during the day and a gate closes the entrance at night.

If you choose Amal, be aware that the beachfront hotel is paired with more upscale apartments at the Amal Villa Apartments across the street, so make a note of which apartment you book.

When: The best time to visit Bentota is January to March when the city is mostly sunny. With April comes the monsoon season. June to September are the wettest months but still sunny. In November, the weather becomes hot and humid, but it is still a good time to visit, especially for Diwali celebrations.

How: We booked the Little Swan Bentota boat tour (2.5 hours, 1,800 LKR / $12 per person) but were saddened to see that it included a photo opportunity with a baby crocodile. Therefore, we recommend checking with Sri Lanka Water Sports or Diyakawa Water Sports (+94 77 916 5330) instead.

You can get from Colombo to Bentota by train (check the timetable here). It's worth checking the trains to nearby Aluthgama as they run more frequently than those to Bentota. From Aluthgama you can take a tuk tuk to your hotel (300LKR / 2USD).

Depending on your starting point, bus routes are available. It's worth noting that we found bus travel in Sri Lanka quite stressful, so you may want to take a transfer instead. Your hotel can arrange this, but it's always worth negotiating a discount as these are usually excessive (e.g. if it says LKR 15,000, ask for 11,000).

Many tourists choose to hire a driver for the entire trip. This costs approximately $45 per day (including days you don't use the driver). We used Ajaa (+94 777 284 178) and Sisi (+94 777 203 083) for shorter transfers and found them friendly and reliable.

Most international flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB). Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

old=““>

Lonely Planet Sri Lanka is a comprehensive travel guide to Sri Lanka, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

      .