Hiking at Lake Sørvágsvatn, Faroe Islands

Hiking at Lake Sørvágsvatn, Faroe Islands

Blessed with nice weather, we set off for Sørvágsvatn, where the largest lake in the Faroe Islands stretches into the ocean

Sometimes, in the middle of the British winter, I console myself that at least I'm not on Cotopaxi. At least I'm not on Cotopaxi. Our 2015 glacier hike on Cotopaxi Volcano was probably the coldest I've ever done. My fingers were immobile and my feet were lumps of ice, and yet we trudged on through the rain, sleet and snow.

Haunted by the memory of that test ride, I donned a base layer, a mid-layer, a light fleece, a thick fleece, and a waterproof jacket before our hike to Lake Sørvágsvatn. After all, we were on the Faroe Islands, which are hardly known for summer sun.

This remote collection of 18 islands lies about halfway between Iceland and Norway in the Atlantic Ocean. Its untamed beauty promises many things – adventure, isolation, mystery and drama – but sunshine is not one of them.

Luckily we arrived in good weather, perfect for hiking on Lake Sørvágsvatn. We drove 40 km from the capital Tórshavn to Sørvágsvatn on the neighboring island of Vágar. Wrapped up in all my layers, I got out of the car and was pretty sure I would keep all my fingers.

We entered through a gate that marked the starting point and were greeted by a local. We had read that the Faroese are a stoic bunch and prefer actions to words and silence to small talk. As such, we nodded hello.

As it turned out, that wasn't why he greeted us; there was now an entry fee, and he was there to collect it.

alt=“Hiking by Lake Sørvágsvatn”>Atlas & BootsView from the hike along Lake Sørvágsvatn

We learned that hiking Sørvágsvatn Lake would cost us 200 DKK per person – a pretty painful $30 per person – making it the most expensive day hike we've ever done. The trail passes through private land and is one of several in the Faroe Islands with hiking restrictions and mandatory fees. Doesn't matter. We were in the Faroe Islands, which are not there for free.

We set off, an easy 45 minute walk along the lip of the lake. At more than 6 km long, Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands. Its notoriety may explain why it is also a source of controversy. Locals in the area disagree about the name of the lake.

The residents of Sørvágur in the west prefer Sørvágsvatn, which means "the lake at Sørvágur", while those in the east prefer Leitisvatn, which means "the lake at Leiti". The tourism association uses both tactfully.

alt=“Hiking-Sørvágsvatn-Seehaus-2″>Atlas & BootsA lonely dwelling by Lake Sørvágsvatn

We walked through picturesque peat meadows towards Trælanípa (Slave Rock), a vertical rock face rising 142m from the sea. Trælanípa is said to have earned its name in the Viking Age, when unwanted slaves were pushed off the wall and thrown into the sea.

The headland at Trælanípa is famous for its view of “the lake over the ocean”. Photographed in a certain way, it looks as if Lake Sørvágsvatn is looming on the cliffs high above the ocean. In reality it lies behind the cliff, only 30-40 m higher than the sea.

alt=“Hiking by Lake Sørvágsvatn”>ShutterstockThe famous view of “the lake over the ocean”

The high cliffs surrounding Lake Sørvágsvatn prevent it from flowing into the North Atlantic, except through the Bøsdalafossur waterfall. This is the literal meeting point of a lake and an ocean.

Aside from the charming puffins in Mykines, the hike to Lake Sørvágsvatn was the highlight of our trip, which somewhat eased the sting of the fee.

alt=“Bøsdalafossur waterfall flows into the ocean”>Atlas & BootsBøsdalafossur waterfall flows into the ocean

After walking the length of the lake, Peter now wanted to walk the width (as is his nature). Jagged rocks and huge boulders formed a natural dam, so we made our way to the other side.

“Are you sure we can do that?” I asked, choosing a cautious path over. “Of course,” said Peter, carefree as ever. “It was on the map,” he explained confidently.

On the other side, I crouched in a hollow between two rocks, seeking shelter from the wind while Peter took more photos. At one point he came dangerously close to losing his tripod over the edge of the cliff.

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It wasn't long before we retraced our route over the causeway and rejoined the official route. It got sunnier and I started taking off my layers. In the Faroe Islands, putting on and taking off layers must be a national pastime given the ever-changing weather. It can be a bit tiring, but the Faroe Islands are worth the extra effort.

These wild islands exceed the hype and pulsate with the legend of Viking blood. Deep treeless valleys, wave-lashed headlands and sheer cliffs conjure up lore and myth. We don't know if we'll come back, but we'll definitely try with all our might.

Hiking at Lake Sørvágsvatn: tips

• Das Wetter kann sich abrupt ändern, also stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie Schichten einpacken
• Denken Sie daran, dass die Wanderung 200 DKK (30 USD) pro Person kostet
• Halten Sie am Vorgebirge bei Trælanípa an, um den berühmten Blick auf „den See über dem Ozean“ zu genießen
• Seien Sie an den Rändern vorsichtig, da es plötzlich windig werden kann
• Besuchen Sie den nahe gelegenen Trollkunfinger nach einer Wanderung am See Sørvágsvatn

Hiking by Lake Sørvágsvatn: the most important thing

What: Hiking at Lake Sørvágsvatn in the Faroe Islands.

Where: We stayed at The Old Millar House, a charming cottage 1km from the city center. The cottage is warm and cozy with a traditional turf roof and access to a grotto-like garden.

There is a beach just a few meters away (although it might be too cool for swimming!) and the Sandá River flows practically on the doorstep. If you want to experience the Faroe Islands' nightlife, you may want to stay closer to the center, but for those who like to retreat to cozy evenings, the Old Millar House is an excellent option.

Click here to get a discount on your first Airbnb stay or find alternative accommodation through Booking.com.

    Booking.com

When: The best time to travel to the Faroe Islands is from May to September. Late spring brings longer days (perfect for hiking), wildflowers, and of course puffins. From mid-June to mid-August, puffins flock to land to nest. For two weeks on either side you'll probably see a few more.

How: Hiking at Lake Sørvágsvatn costs 200 DKK (30 USD) per person. Hikers can pay the fee by card or cash upon arrival. The price includes tea or coffee in the portcabin at the starting point. There are also toilets on site.

We rented a car from 62°N Car Rental and navigated our way to the trailhead using “Sørvágsvatn” on Google Maps. Driving in the Faroe Islands is straightforward, the roads are in good condition, easy to navigate and rarely busy. There is free parking at all major attractions. The parking lot at Sørvágsvatn can be reached via a short stretch of gravel path. Read our guide to driving in the Faroe Islands for more information.

We flew to the Faroe Islands with Atlantic Airways. Book flights via Skyscanner.

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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