Suche
Mein Konto
Bologna in transition: How foodification is transforming the city!
Gourmet tourism is changing cities like Bologna and Rome: traditional food is giving way to tourist trends. Insights into foodification.
Bologna in transition: How foodification is transforming the city!
Gourmet tourism has experienced a noticeable increase in many major European cities in recent years. The changes in the neighborhoods that accompany this trend are particularly evident in cities such as Bologna, Venice and Florence. Bologna, for example, has earned the nickname "City of Cutting Boards" due to the increase in delis and takeaways, such as World reported.
The term “foodification” describes this phenomenon in which traditional shops and residents are displaced by tourist-oriented gastronomy. This problem is not limited to Italy; A similar development can also be observed in cities such as Paris, Lyon, Barcelona and Bilbao. According to the Italian Chamber of Agriculture, “turismo enogastronomico” will generate an impressive revenue of nine billion euros in the first four months of 2025.
Resistance and criticism
Despite the economic advantages, there is resistance among Italians to this development, which could damage local structures. Critical voices expressed to Marco Perruca and Paolo Tessarin, who published the book “Foodification, come the cibo si è mangiato le città”.
Politics that actively support tourism are often blamed for rising rents and the displacement of residents. One example is Lyon, where the high density of “authentic” bouchons leaves little room for other businesses. In Dublin and Venice, tourists crowding into traditional pubs and bars caused discontent among locals. To combat this, Barcelona has taken measures to ban groups of 15 or more people from entering the famous La Boqueria indoor market at the same time.
Developments in Rome and beyond gastronomy
Similar developments can be seen in Rome. There, traditional trattorias are increasingly being replaced by restaurants with international cuisine. In the former Jewish ghetto, for example, foodification has led to the dominance of grocery stores in an area that previously primarily provided housing. This change is not only the result of gentrification, but also shaped by interest in Jewish cuisine and religious dietary laws JPR explained.
Gastronomy in the former ghetto now offers a variety of new restaurant styles, from traditional Judeo-Roman dishes to Middle Eastern and North African dishes to kosher versions of international dishes. However, this diversity does not threaten to endanger the Jewish-Roman tradition; much more it reflects the different communities and their tastes.
Foodification can also be observed outside Europe, such as in Mexico City. Traditional offerings are increasingly being replaced by modern restaurants. While enogastronomy was once seen as a positive aspect of tourism, many now see it as a negative. In Bologna, traditional tortellini are increasingly being offered “to go”, which contradicts authentic eating habits.