Oman: the alternative to Dubai for adventurers

Oman: the alternative to Dubai for adventurers

From the grand mosques of Muscat to the magnificent mountains of Al-Hajar, Oman is an alluring alternative to Dubai

In Oman, you'll hear a lot about how the country is second best at something. It has the second largest carpet in the world, your guide might tell you - a hand-woven beauty in the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, usurped only by its counterpart in Abu Dhabi.

Oman has the second largest pipe organ in the world, housed in the magnificent Royal Opera House. And if you happen to stroll along Muttrah's coastline, you might be told that the Sultan's 155-meter yacht is the second longest in the world. These claims vary in veracity, but they seem appropriate in a country still in the shadow of its great neighbors.

Atlas & BootsSultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat

This should come as no surprise as Oman appears to be less dependent on the spoils of capitalism. There are no gleaming skyscrapers or the constant pressure of excess wealth here. It's true that Muscat's Grand Mosque and Royal Opera House are as elegant and elegant as modern Arabia often is, but strolling through its souks and fortresses you still get a sense of its old soul.

Atlas & BootsOman's rich heritage offers an alluring alternative to Dubai

Oman is in fact the oldest independent state in the Arab world. It is located on the southeast coast of the Arabian Peninsula and borders the UAE as well as Yemen and Saudi Arabia. It should be said that despite its neighbors, Oman remains stable, peaceful and comparatively progressive. In fact, it was named the safest country in the world for expats in 2019.

Rainer Lesniewski/ShutterstockOman borders the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia and Yemen

Interestingly, when Omanis demonstrated in the wake of the Arab Spring in 2011, demanding more jobs and economic benefits, Sultan Qaboos responded by increasing unemployment benefits and issuing a royal directive for a national job creation plan. Despite being elusive, he remains universally popular – at least seemingly. Omanis show a real pride in their leader, evidenced by his ubiquitous portrait plastered on hotel lobbies, storefronts and car windows across the country.

Oman not only offers stability but also a natural beauty unrivaled by the United Arab Emirates, as seen on our six-day trip through the north of the country, starting in the capital Muscat.

Where Dubai offers mostly beaches and shopping malls, Oman offers all that and more: towering granite mountains, dizzying gorges and dramatic gorges or “wadis” that wind between towering peaks.

We began our journey into the mountains in the deserted village of Wadi Bani Habib. This collection of crumbling adobe buildings at the bottom of a valley is lined with numerous walnut trees, creating a timeless scene.

Atlas & BootsThe abandoned village of Wadi Bani Habib

From Wadi Bani Habib we continued deeper into the Al-Hajar mountains. This dramatic mountain range stretches over 700 km through Oman and into the United Arab Emirates and is home to Oman's highest peak, Jebel Shams, which rises to 3,009 m (9,872 ft). However, it is not the peak that attracts tourists the most, but the gorge that lies next to it: Wadi Ghul, known locally as the Grand Canyon of Arabia.

Matyas Rehak/ShutterstockWadi Ghul is known as the Grand Canyon of Arabia

Unfortunately, a rainstorm cut us off from Jebel Shams (yes, it rains in Oman!) and so we drove straight on to Jebel Akhdar or “Green Mountain” with its breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks. One of the most impressive views is from Diana’s Point on the grounds of the Anantara Hotel.

Diana’s Point is named after Diana, Princess of Wales, who visited the site with Prince Charles in November 1986. A plaque states that the couple arrived by helicopter in what was then an untouched wilderness. Charles, it is said, spent the time painting the landscape with watercolors while Diana read a book. It's no surprise that Prince William will be visiting one day with Kate and his family in tow.

Atlas & BootsThe view of Diana's Point

The following day was our favorite: a drive to the village of Wakan through the wild rocky landscape of the peaks of Al-Hajar. Rising from a gravelly plain, these rugged, untamed mountains bear witness to a period of intense geological activity.

For professional geologists, Oman is one of the most interesting countries in the world. It lies at the southeastern corner of the Arabian continental plate, where it meets the Eurasian oceanic plate. As the Red Sea widens, Oman is pushed northward and pushed beneath the Eurasian Plate in a rare geological process called "subduction." Add in the lack of vegetation or land cover, and you have millions of years of complex geological processes revealed with exceptional clarity - all perfectly framed by our Wakan perch.

Atlas & BootsThe Al Hajar Mountains seen from Wakan village

After Wakan, we moved to the Dunes by Al Nahda resort, a series of luxury tents surrounded by dramatic dunes (on weekends locals gather for the usual dune bashing, so expect some noise). There we made our way to our last sunset in Oman.

As we walked through the dunes in the pink twilight, it occurred to me that this was the Oman I expected: huge dunes with razor-sharp lines rising beneath an ethereal sky. What I didn't foresee was everything that came before: the mountains, the ravines and the deep ravines.

Atlas & BootsThe dunes of Oman are a picturesque alternative to Dubai

Even as I thought about it, I was amazed at how much more there was to see: diving in the Daymaniyat Islands, the magnificent Wahiba Sands, the tranquil fjords of Musandam and of course the infamous Empty Quarter that stretches across the western edge of the country.

Oman is a place of incredible geographical diversity that is impossible to see in a single week. With that in mind, we know we will be back. It may be less popular than the UAE, but when it comes to natural beauty, it turns out Oman isn't second best after all.

Visiting Oman: the essentials

What: A six-day trip through northern Oman, our suggested alternative to Dubai.

Where: We stayed at three resorts: the luxurious Kempinski Hotel Muscat in Muscat, the Sahab Resort and Spa in Jebel Akhdar and Dunes by Al Nahda. Diana’s Point is located on the grounds of Anantara in Jebel Akhdar. All are highly recommended.

Top 4: Kempinski Hotel Muscat; Middle four: Sahab Resort & Spa; Bottom four: Dunes of Al Nahda

When: The best time to travel to Oman as an alternative to Dubai is October to March, when the oppressive summer heat gives way to sunny days and balmy nights. Note that it rains in Oman, so plan accordingly.

How: We took a six-day trip with Old Muscat Tourism, who specialize in presenting “7,000 Years in 7 Days.” Our guide Adil was knowledgeable and flexible and went out of his way to fill our day when our route to Jebel Shams was washed out by the rain.

We flew with Oman Air direct from the UK to Muscat in Oman. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

Lonely Planet Oman, United Arab Emirates and Arabian Peninsula offers a comprehensive guide to a safe and rewarding visit to the region.

Disclosure: We traveled to Oman with the support of the Ministry of Tourism. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

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