Climbing Adam's Peak: all 5,500 steps of it!

Climbing Adam's Peak: all 5,500 steps of it!

We set off on a night climb to Adam’s Peak, Sri Lanka’s holiest mountain. That's what happened to us

I was already exhausted from Sri Lanka. So far we have had two men storm into our hotel room in Bentota, get stuck in a toilet in Tissa, get nailed to a wall on a train to Galle and fight flying cockroaches on the road to Udawalawe.

When we arrived at our guesthouse in Dalhousie – the gateway to Adam’s Peak in Sri Lanka – we just wanted somewhere to sleep before our early morning climb. But, oh, what silly dreams. Instead of being shown our room, we were taken aside and asked to pay for it under the table for a discount. We politely declined and after much back and forth we were finally allowed to check in.

We went to bed early to prepare for the night ahead: climbing 5,500 steps up Adam’s Peak, the holiest mountain in the country. Sri Lanka clearly wasn't done with me yet.

We left our hotel at 2:30 a.m. to make the overnight climb, as is customary for tourists and pilgrims, of which the latter were many. The mountain has been a place of pilgrimage for over 1,000 years and people of all shapes and ages gather on its steps to make the climb in time for sunrise.

• alt=“Pagode beim Aufstieg auf den Adam’s Peak gesehen“>
• alt=“Sonnenaufgang nach der Besteigung des Adam’s Peak“>
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• alt=“Teppichwolken nach der Besteigung des Adam’s Peak“>
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• alt=“Blick auf die Berge nach der Besteigung des Adam’s Peak“>
• alt=“Die Aussicht nach der Besteigung des Adam’s Peak“>
• alt=“Weitere Ansichten nach der Besteigung des Adam’s Peak“>
• alt=“Treppe beim Klettern auf den Adam’s Peak“>
• alt=“Ansicht nach der Besteigung des Adam’s Peak“>
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Standing at 2,243 m (7,359 feet), Adam's Peak is unique in that it is significant in several major religions thanks to the strange depression at its summit known as the Sri Pada, or Sacred Footprint. Buddhists believe the footprint is of Buddha, Muslims claim it is the footprint of Adam, while Hindus believe it belongs to Shiva. Christians have claimed it for St. Thomas, but no one seems to take it very seriously.

Personally, I was more enchanted by its shape as Samanalakande – or Butterfly Mountain, where butterflies die.

With many layers in tow, we drove into the night. Despite the relatively mild temperature at the base of Adam's Peak, the 1,400m, 7km climb can leave ill-prepared tourists shivering at the summit.

alt="Climbing Adam's Peak lit with tea lights">Atlas & BootsThe path to the summit was lit with tea lights

We took a short walk through the town center (really just a handful of hotels, cafes and makeshift stalls) and reached the base of Adam’s Peak. Since it was high season (January to March), the path to the summit was lit with tea lights and lined with tea huts.

I prepared for the climb and kept telling myself to take it slow. I've completed many physical challenges - from climbing Nevis Peak to completing the Salkantay Trek - but nothing that required this much endurance. After all, it was 5,500 steps!

The first 30 minutes were gentle as we weaved past busy street vendors, Buddhist shrines and colorful prayer flags in the crisp night air. There was plenty of space between steps, meaning we could walk for a while, climb for a while, and alternate between the two.

We soon reached the Peace Pagoda, after which the climb began in earnest. The steps gradually became smaller, steeper and more irregular, making it impossible to establish a rhythm. One step may be a short jump while the next is a strenuous lift.

alt="Peter climbs Adams Peak">Atlas & BootsPeter just below the top of Adam’s Peak

I, ever the pragmatist, kept a close eye on other climbers to monitor whether I was going too fast (probably not) or too slow. Peter, who is much fitter than me, always prefers to rush to the top, so it was up to me to set a consistent pace.

Pilgrims dressed in white trudged forward as if in a trance. We saw everything from toddlers to elderly people making their way up. We are told that most Buddhists want to make the ascension once in their lives - and once is probably enough. In fact, a local saying goes, "If you've never climbed Sri Pada, you're a fool; if you've climbed it twice, you're a damn fool."

We trudged on and on, trying to adjust our running style. Peter likes long but infrequent breaks, while I prefer short breaks, but lots of them. He was admirably patient as I kept shuffling to the side, begging to stop.

alt=“almost at the top while climbing Adam’s Peak”>Atlas & BootsAlmost there!

I considered taking a tea break but decided against it as I hoped to avoid the toilets. I had read that they were terrible, although it's worth noting that Peter thought they were "fine."

We started with an almost vertical section with handrails on the sides. When a passing monk told us that we were about 750 steps from the top, I didn't entirely believe him. Despite frequent breaks, or perhaps because of them, my legs felt surprisingly good. I had prepared so much and for so long for the climb that it actually wasn't nearly as strenuous as I expected.

We climbed the final stretch and arrived at the top at 5:15am, a total of 2 hours 45 minutes after we started. Sunrise was at 6am and since shoes are not allowed on the last platform, we decided to wait underneath for a while. This is where our many layers really came into their own.

alt=“Waiting for sunrise while climbing Adam’s Peak”>Atlas & BootsWaiting for the sunrise

When the time came, we took off our shoes (socks are okay) and set off. Some former pilgrims had given us a good tip: go up to the last platform 20 minutes before sunrise, but don't stop at the top of the stairs like the others. Instead, walk clockwise around the platform and park next to the stairs.

This is a good place to watch the sunrise. Climbers can ring one of the two bells along the trail, as is customary for pilgrims reaching the summit.

alt="Sunrise after climbing Adam's Peak">Atlas & BootsThe first signs of sunrise

The sunrise is pretty, but the truly spectacular view is on the opposite side of the platform. During peak season (January to March), there is an 80% chance of seeing the mountain's shadow, which appears as a triangular apparition on the horizon. One of the mysteries of Adam's Peak is the perfectly triangular outline of the shadow, which does not match the irregular shape of the actual peak.

alt="Shadows after climbing Adam's Peak">Atlas & BootsThe eerie pyramid shadow cast by Sri Pada

We peered into the tiny temple that houses the famous footprint (or at least an impression of it; the real footprint is said to be beneath the surface). Despite the gold leaf, reams of cash and intricate ornaments, the footprint was overshadowed by the carpet of clouds drifting beneath the peak.

We spent an hour at the top and headed down at 7am, making sure to descend the way we ascended. There are two routes up and taking the wrong one down leaves climbers miles from where they started. The descent was tough, but much quicker than the climb (we made it in 1 hour 30 minutes compared to 2 hours 45 minutes up).

alt=“Carpet clouds after climbing Adam’s Peak”>Atlas & BootsA blanket of clouds surrounds the summit

Of course, we took plenty of time to enjoy the views - some of the most incredible we've ever seen. In fact, climbing Adam’s Peak was the best thing we did in Sri Lanka. better than the leopards in Yala, better than the baby elephants in Udawalawe, better than hiking the beautiful Ella Rock or its massive counterpart in Sigiriya and better than the beaches of Trinco and Bentota.

Actually, I don't feel all that exhausted from Sri Lanka.

Climbing Adam’s Peak: the essentials

What: Climbing Adam’s Peak in Sri Lanka.

Where: Because Dalhousie is largely undeveloped, there is a lack of quality accommodation. We stayed at the White House Adam's Peak, which had a beautiful view of Adam's Peak, but also some dodgy staff as mentioned above. Instead, try Queensark, Hugging Clouds or Daddy’s Guest Home, all of which are highly ranked on Booking.com.

It's worth noting that we couldn't find Dalhousie in many search engines, so you might want to search for Nallathanniya instead.

When: Climbing Adam’s Peak is best done between January and March to experience the atmosphere at its best. Then the path is illuminated, tea huts line the path and pilgrims mingle with tourists. With this in mind, you would do well to avoid the Sri Lankan New Year in mid-April, every full moon (known as “poya” days), and even the weekend if possible. This is when the trail is busiest and you could find yourself queuing for the summit.

It is possible to climb Adam's Peak out of season, but bring food, water and a good flashlight. You can also climb it during the day, but the summit is often obscured by clouds, and even if it is clear, you won't see the famous shadow.

How: Climbing Adam’s Peak is easiest from Dalhousie (7 km, approx. 3 hours). An alternative, much longer route (15 km, about 7 hours) ascends from the Ratnapura side of the mountain via Palabaddale.

You can reach Dalhousie by train to Hatton and then by bus or tuk-tuk. Trains depart from Colombo, Kandy and Ella, among others - check the timetable here ('Ella' is written as 'Elle' in the search dropdown). It's worth noting that we couldn't find Dalhousie in many search engines, so try Nallathanniya instead.

The Hatton to Dalhousie bus runs every 10 minutes and winds through beautiful countryside. The journey takes 1.5 hours and costs 75 LKR (0.60 USD). A tuk-tuk ride takes 1 hour and costs 1,000-1,500 LKR (7-11 USD).

You may want to take a transfer instead. Your hotel can arrange this, but it's always worth negotiating a discount as these are usually excessive (e.g. if it says LKR 15,000, ask for 11,000).

Many tourists choose to hire a driver for the entire trip. This costs approximately $45 per day (including days you don't use the driver). We used Ajaa (+94 777 284 178) and Sisi (+94 777 203 083) for shorter transfers and found them friendly and reliable.

Most international flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB). Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

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